To answer my own question, I just tweaked the trimmer down for the extruder motor until it stopped extruding during a print, then raised it back up one "tweak" until it started extruding again. Since then I have been able to run continuously without overheating the motor. Sorry for the inexactness of my measurements. Basically, the trimmer started at 12:00. I turned it counter-clockwise to about 7:30 and things seem pretty dialed in.

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The extruder motor on my WhiteAnt is running very hot and causing the filament to lose integrity near the drive gear causing stripping. How can I adjust the motor controller to reduce current draw or are there other sugesstions to help it run cooler? the fan runs full time.

When you press the x-axis limit switch, does the LED emit light?

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I currently have my whiteant build complete. But when I go to print the 20mm x 20mm box I seem to be having issues. The Z axis does not seem to move. Also the X axis hits the limit and does not move of of it. What is the best way to trouble shoot this issue?

Depending on the type of motors and connection type, you could adapt your motors to work with our electronic packages, but you will receive additional motors since our kit is complete.

Now you will have to take into affect the actual motors you have and compare or get accurate replacements(Ex. our 425 oz motor(1/4" input shaft) will have to be same size or similar entry holes)

Your Controller board will be the major issue, due to its wiring and processing manner, you can view the connections for our breakout boards to compare with yours! (parallel: https://www.buildyourcnc.com/item/electronicsAndMotors-parallel-breakout-relay#prettyPhoto/2/)(USB: https://www.buildyourcnc.com/item/electronicsAndMotors-electronic-component-USB-Controller-Breakout#prettyPhoto/2/)
Email(customerservice@buildyourcnc.com for further help)

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I am looking at one of your electronics packages as a replacement for my excisting electronics. I have a old table top CNC that has a bad electronics pack, but the motors, and the mill are in good shape. could your system be adapted to work in this case?

Do you have an oscilloscope? You will be able to see the PWM signal and determine if the output is correct. Make sure that you are using the 10V from the VFD as the voltage reference for the 10V terminal on the Mach3 USB controller. The 10V terminal is an input, not an output on the Mach3 USB controller. The 10V is the top voltage signal level that the Mach3 USB controller uses for the PWM signals 100% duty cycle.

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[575] I have the wiring and programming and parameters set the same way that you do in the spindle speed control and outputs videos, I can start and stop the spindle with mach3 but can't seem to control the speed. Can you think of solutions?

We apologize for the confusion! The current greenBull kit in the video is a 4' x 8' gB CNC machine, so we currently have a shorter Y-axis length, compared to the 5X/6X kits. However with the gB 5X you should skip every other section(or something similar so it is symmetrical), since we added the option for you to increase the number of ribs if you wish, but is not necessary for the CNC machine.

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Building the 5x10 GreenBull, I went to install the ribs on the mid section of the gantry and you say in the video to skip a spot for the motor to sit, but I have 3 sections that are going to blank not just one like you show in the video. Do I skip more than one, am I missing ribs?

The ring inside the nut is purposely machined in this way to allow movement for the collet. Try threading the nut counterclockwise a little bit until it seems to be flush on the spindle extension. This should ensure the collet nut will thread correctly without stripping the threads on the pipe.

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I purchased a 220V spindle with invertor last week and the ER20-A Clamping nut appears to milled incorrectly. I installed the spindle for the first time last night and was unable to screw the nut any distance with a bit inside. Looking inside the nut, there is a machined ring that is visibly off center.

https://buildyourcnc.com/Item/electronicsAndMotors-electronic-component-e-stop-button-switch-safety#prettyPhoto/0/

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How do I wire up multiple E-stop to breakout board, does each E-stop need there own pin? If not since there are only 4 screws on stop 2 for no and 2 for nc do you just splice the wires together if your only using 1 pin? Thanks

Polabs prepared step by step user guide for PoKeys57CNC and Mach4 to try answering such questions. It is available in our downloads section: https://www.poscope.com/wp-content/uploads/downloads/Pokeys/LibrariesAndPlugins/Mach4 and PoKeys57CNC - step by step guide.pdf

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I need your assistance... I have two items left to setup on my Pokey57CNC and Mach4, Home switches and Spindle Speed. I have watched the videos, but they are for Mach3 and the screens are different in Mach4. Can someone please explain the setup of these two items in Mach4?

Not a problem. The ALM is rather self-explanatory as this is a closed-loop stepper motor and driver that you are using. The ALM (alarm) is a signal that is used to tell the driver/controller that the motor is not in the same condition that the driver expects. In a closed-loop system, the motor has an encoder that tells the driver exactly how many steps that it turned, and if this value does not coincide with the driver's outputted number of steps, and within a specified amount of time, the alarm will trigger so the system can stop and the workpiece can be salvaged.

The MF is simply a signal that tells the driver that there is impending direction and step pulses coming. If the MF signal is high, then that is similar to an enable signal.

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Hello I recently read your site and have a question. I have a driver model DM2722A but I can't connect it to my usb controller due to the fact that the driver is not marked enable, but instead it is marked: mf-, mf +, alm-, alm +. I will be very grateful if you explain to me the meaning of the latter and tell me what should be related to "enable" Thanks in advance!

Many shielded cables come in various materials and designs, so having one with a copper mesh covering the inner insulator wire is no problem. We currently use a extension cord found locally at a hardware store and include one 18G wire for ground. So a specific shielded cable is not a required, unless being used next to specific and sensitive electronics that are extremely sensitive to noise and voltage interference than a shielded cable is required.

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I purchased a 2.2 spindle a while back and went to the electrical supply house to but shielded cable for the power run, I was on the web a while back and saw a picture of shielded cable that didn't look like what I had bought. should it have a copper like mesh wraped around the inner insulation. Thanks

This would totally work for that application. This cable carrier is used for any object that needs to move and carries some electrical or tubing within it. This cable carrier is great for cable management where you want to make sure the wires and tubes are in a position that you set, not where the wires and tubing want to go.

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[311] I am looking to use this type of thing with a pipe for theater. Where the pipe can be lowered and it would have electrical and signal cable inside. Is this good for that or should I look at something else?

That is correct. We send the fewer ribs than could be fastened within the gantry. One reduction of a rib will provide more space for the motor at the midpoint of the gantry and at the other side of the gantry (opposite the motor) can be reduced to provide more space to work with the coupling.

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I'm assembling the gantry for a 5x10 greenbull and noticed that there are 9 spaces for torsion spacers but only 7 in the kit. Should I just space them out on the right side behind the motor?

Is the cable between the mach3 USB and the YL260 shielded. If that does not solve the problem, add an induction coil to the cable to reduce any current fluctuations.

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Hello. I have bought an RnR Motion Controller and a YL260-A and I have it set up to the AVI from RnR to the VI1 of YL620-A but I'm getting that the RPM varies not like interference but like a drop from max value to min value. What could be happening?

I would highly recommend a spindle and VFD rather than a router.

Spindles:
- Have a far longer life longer than a router. You will probably go through a few routers before the end of the spindle's life.
- Are quieter than routers
- And the water cooled spindles we stock do not blow the chips into the air. Chips are much easier to capture with or without a dust removal system.

You can find our spindles here:
https://www.buildyourcnc.com/SpindlesAndAccessories.aspx

Once you get your first spindle, you will never go back to routers. Routers are great for handrouting work, but not the best for continuous CNC milling.

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Hi there, I have a cnc table that I built but I am looking for a higher powered router because I am using the table for flattening slabs with a large straight bit. Would you have any recommendations for the type of router I should buy? Also do you sell large bits for flattening slabs?

I have not hear of this. This cold be an issue with using later firmware, but I have not come across having to cut the trace for the reset enable on the Arduino board.

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Have you heard of the requirement to cut the Reset Enable trace on the Aruduino Mega for a Makerbot Thing-o-matic? Does this apply to the whiteAnt 3d printer? The trace on my Arduino board is definitely connected and I am experiencing issues with connectivity. Please advise.

We apologize for the confusion, however in the very first video that is regarding the assembly, is of the torsion box. We do not included that in any greenBull kit, as we use too sell it individually! However due to high consumption of materials and high cost(both in shipping and for the kit itself) we have removed it from our inventory and no longer sell it.

This video can be skipped, however if you plan on making a DIY torsion box, this video will be helpful in your build!

The torsion box is not needed, as the frame itself will be more than sufficient in keeping the machine from flexing or vibrating.

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I ordered the GreenBull 5' x 10' kit. The first video for assembly shows that I should have 5 large boards that attach to the table, but I don't have those boards. Is that something I need to build or were they not shipped?

If you are having issues with inconsistent extrustion, then that tells me that it may be the result of heat buildup to the hub and motor that is pushing the filament. Our new extruder does use a spring at the screw to compress the wheel against the hub on the motor.

Consider a cooling method to cool down that area of the extruder.

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I've had my 3d printer working for a few weeks now with mixed results. My main problem is inconsistent extrusion. After about a half hour of printing, I find that extrusion slows down or stops. Tweaking the set screw helps sometimes. Do you have any tips for setting the tension or are you looking into any spring-loaded tensioners? I have the MK7 extruder (the one prior to what you're selling now).

The axis and connection information for the 3D Printer Main Board can be found here in the instructions below the product information.

https://www.buildyourcnc.com/item/3D-Printer-Component-electronicsAndMotors-3d-printer-mainboard-FDMElectronics-3dprintermainboard

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I purchased the driver boards and MB shield for the White Ant. None of the headers are labeled. Is there a diagram showing which headers is for which axis? Is there also a diagram showing which pin on the driver is ABCD? I have watched the vids and the boards in them do not match what was sent to me.

You want to make sure that the motors will be able to provide the necessary torque since there will not be mechanical advantage using roller chain. You will need a way to fix the chain to each end. I like to use #4 - 3/4" screws and #4 nuts. You will need a drive sprocket for each axis and a couple idler sprockets on each axis to serve as tensioners and guiding the roller chain.

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OK cool. I have NEMA 24 steppers rated 425 oz-in. Is there some rule of thumb I can use to guess if that's enough? I'm not planning to push against hard stock material.

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I have a lead screw machine I built from the book plans (i know, ancient history) and I'm thinking of converting the X and Y axis to rollerchain. Assuming I can configure my controller appropriately, is there anything I should buy besides chain, drive cog, tension cog and mounting hardware?