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Question #: 14152

Question: I'm building my own machine using your motors and drivers. What is the best dip switch settings for the 3.0 amp drivers powering the 425 oz motors

Current Solution

The settings that you will use for your 3.0 amp driver to properly power and turn your 425 oz-in stepper motor will cheifly depend on your application and the mechanical parts you are using on your machine. In all circumstances, the amp setting for the stepper motor (according to the datasheet) should be 2.8 amps. Use the closest setting on the driver without going over.

Here is a good rule of thumb for the microstepping which will correspond to the resolution, but wil also affect torque. You always want to try to achieve the best torque and resolution for the axis you are moving but go with the lowest microstepping possible. In cases where there is mechanical advantage, like a lead screw scenario, where for each motor revolution, the axis move a very small amount, you will want a very low microstep value. This is because the mechanical configuration will provide most of the finer resolution and you will not need the microstepping to assist in this. Increase the microstepping only in conditions where the axis is not moving smooth enough, or where there is a mechanical disadvantage. A mechanical disadvantage would be where the stepper motor is causing a great amount of movement in the axis and the resolutions suffers from this condition. Increase the microstep value up to your desired resolution, but don't go over since the torque of the motor will decrease.

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Other Possible Solutions to this Question

  • I'm planning on using your 425 oz motors and need help on selecting the right interface and driver boards. The PoKeys57 CNC USB card looks good but I wonder if the 2.5 amp driver boards shown with it are enough for the 3 amp motors?

    You can use the Pokeys57CNC board with our 3.0 amp drivers. The Pokeys57CNC has all of the headers necessary to provide the pulse train to any common stepper driver.

    Here is the link to the Pokeys57CNC interface board:
    https://www.buildyourcnc.com/item/electronicsAndMotors-electronic-component-breakout-Mach4-mach3-USB-ethernet-Board

    Here is the link to the 3.0 amp stepper motor driver:
    https://www.buildyourcnc.com/item/electronicsAndMotors-stepper-driver-3!0a

    Click the link to add information to this solution:
    I'm planning on using your 425 oz motors and need help on selecting the right interface and driver boards. The PoKeys57 CNC USB card looks good but I wonder if the 2.5 amp driver boards shown with it are enough for the 3 amp motors?

  • BUILDING ONE OF YOUR GREENBULL 6X LONG AND 2.2 KILOWATT SPINDLE DOES NOT FIT. SEEMS LEAD SCREW YOU SENT WITH KIT IS SHORT 42" LOOKS LIKE IT NEEDS TO BE 5 OR 6 INCH LONGER. THIS CORRECT? WHAT THE NEEDED LENGTH FOR UNIT?
  • [422] I'm interested in using Mach4 and already have 3 motors (425 oz-in). Is it possible to get a electronics system without the motors?

    Yes, I can furnish the redFly system without motors. You can request a quote for this at customerservice@buildlyourcnc.com

    Click the link to add information to this solution:
    [422] I'm interested in using Mach4 and already have 3 motors (425 oz-in). Is it possible to get a electronics system without the motors?

  • My Z-axis seems to be reversed on a fully assembled machine... I've tried reversing it in the config settings on Mach 3, but to no avail. What do I need to do? IS this a wiring issue that was not done correctly at the factory?

    If your Z axis is moving in the opposite direction, go into Mach3, click on config, ports & pins, then click on the motor outputs tab. You will see the axes labeled on the left and the parameters labeled on the top of this dialog box. Toggle the dir low active for the z-axis.

    Additional Information:
    What if I'm having the same issue on a different axis?

    Additional Information:
    You can follow the same procedure as with the z-axis. When you get to the motors outputs tab, toggle the dir low active checkbox for the axis that you would like to change.

    If you are using another control program, let me know and I will add the recommended action here.

    Additional Information:
    Girbl

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    I have a grbl laser machine tronhoo machine that is running back wards and side ways wrong help

    Additional Information:
    I have a grbl laser machine tronhoo machine that is running back wards and side ways wrong help

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    I have a grbl laser machine tronhoo machine that is running back wards and side ways wrong help

    Additional Information:
    I have a grbl laser machine tronhoo machine that is running back wards and side ways wrong help

    Additional Information:
    I have a grbl laser machine tronhoo machine that is running back wards and side ways wrong help

    Additional Information:
    I have a grbl laser machine tronhoo machine that is running back wards and side ways wrong help

    Additional Information:
    I have a grbl laser machine tronhoo machine that is running back wards and side ways wrong help

    Additional Information:
    I have a grbl laser machine tronhoo machine that is running back wards and side ways wrong help

    Additional Information:
    I have a grbl laser machine tronhoo machine that is running back wards and side ways wrong help

    Additional Information:
    I have a grbl laser machine tronhoo machine that is running back wards and side ways wrong help

    Additional Information:
    I have a grbl laser machine tronhoo machine that is running back wards and side ways wrong help

    Additional Information:
    I have a grbl laser machine tronhoo machine that is running back wards and side ways wrong help

    Additional Information:
    I have a grbl laser machine tronhoo machine that is running back wards and side ways wrong help

    Click the link to add information to this solution:
    My Z-axis seems to be reversed on a fully assembled machine... I've tried reversing it in the config settings on Mach 3, but to no avail. What do I need to do? IS this a wiring issue that was not done correctly at the factory?

  • I've built a machine where the y axis has (2) 425oz motors, x axis has (1) 425oz. motor, and the z axis also has (1) 425oz motor. Would it be better to purchase a redleaf system with 4 drivers? or can I just connect both y axis motors to the same driver for a total of 3 drivers?

    In all CNC electronics configurations, you will need the motor paired with its own driver.

    If two motors/drivers are intended for a single axis and the motors need to turn at the same rate and in the same direction, then the two drivers for these motors should be connected to the same signal wires from the breakout board (step (CP) and direction (CW)) signal wires.

    If the motors need to turn in opposite directions, then either one driver will need to have the direction signal inverted, or resolve the opposite direction through a change in the mechanical drive train (i.e. flip the rack on a rack and pinion configuration, or in a roller chain setup, have the chain ride along the opposite side of the drive sprocket).

    How do I go about purchasing a redleaf system with 4 drivers, where the (y) and (a) driver are connected to the same signal from the breakout board? I'd also need them to rotate in opposite directions.

    The redLeaf webpage contains a purchase option for an extra motor and driver. We can setup the redLeaf system uniquely so it conforms to your application (i.e. motors running in opposite directions).

    Click the link to add information to this solution:
    I've built a machine where the y axis has (2) 425oz motors, x axis has (1) 425oz. motor, and the z axis also has (1) 425oz motor. Would it be better to purchase a redleaf system with 4 drivers? or can I just connect both y axis motors to the same driver for a total of 3 drivers?

  • I plug in my redFly for the first time and after configuring Mach3 and rechecked my settings axes Y and Z are working well, but X is not working, just for testing I plugged in each motor to the Y and Z and they work fine, but no motor works when plug into the X axes of the redFly, also one of the NEMA 24 425 Oz motors dose not turn just jitters.

    You will also need to check if the mach3 configuration and the wiring. Since you tested the connection from the motors to the drivers, the connection from the computer to the interface may still be the issue. It could also be the connection from the interface to the drivers, but we test all of these units going out, so I don't believe that would be the problem.

    If you have a redfly that uses a parallel cable, you may need to check to make sure the parallel cable is functioning properly, and also, make sure that the interface is also powered using a usb cable.

    If you have a usb interface (the terminals will be labeled XD, XP and so on), then there may be a wire not seated correctly in a terminal.

    Click the link to add information to this solution:
    I plug in my redFly for the first time and after configuring Mach3 and rechecked my settings axes Y and Z are working well, but X is not working, just for testing I plugged in each motor to the Y and Z and they work fine, but no motor works when plug into the X axes of the redFly, also one of the NEMA 24 425 Oz motors dose not turn just jitters.

  • I am configuring a blackfoot with 1 CW8060 and 2 CW230's with linuxcnc and cannot figure out the proper settings for stepconf. Can you provide the default settings that should work with these motors?

    These are the recommend values(default) for our blackFoot CNC machine, the acceleration and velocity can be adjusted as high as the motor can rotate without stalling! Suggested increment's will be by 10's.

    blackFoot:
    X-axis
    “CW8060 (6.0A) Driver”
    Set to 1/16 Microstep, 5.43A
    Dipswitches: 01100110 (“0”=down, “1”=up)
    Motor Tuning: 914.29 steps/in, Velocity 400.02, Acceleration 4

    Y-axis
    “CW230 (3.0A) Driver”
    Set to 1/16 Microstep, 2.7A
    Dipswitches: 11001100
    Motor Tuning: 1422.22 steps/in, Velocity 400.02, Acceleration 4

    Z-axis
    “CW230 (3.0A) Driver”
    Set to 1/4 Microstep, 2.7A
    Dipswitches: 10101100
    Motor Tuning: 1600 steps/in, Velocity 79.98, Acceleration 5

    Additional Information:
    Thanks! What about step and direction config? I have:
    Step time: 2000ns
    Step space: 8000ns
    Direction hold: 5000ns
    Direction Setup: 5000ns

    Click the link to add information to this solution:
    I am configuring a blackfoot with 1 CW8060 and 2 CW230's with linuxcnc and cannot figure out the proper settings for stepconf. Can you provide the default settings that should work with these motors?

  • WHAT IS THE LEAD TIME FOR REDFROG PICK AND PLACE MACHINE?

    You can expect a two week lead time for the redFrog pick and place machine.

    Additional Information:

    Click the link to add information to this solution:
    WHAT IS THE LEAD TIME FOR REDFROG PICK AND PLACE MACHINE?

  • I AM BUILDING THE CNC DEMONSTRATED IN YOUR PUBLISHED BOOK 'BUILD OWN MACHINE', 2009. YOU SELL 3 AXIS ELECTRONIS COMBO, PARALLEL, FOR $390. IS THIS PACKAGE FROM BOOK. OR ARE THERE OTHER RECOMMENDATIONS. THANK YOU, HARY HOLSTEIN

    The CNC router build from book "Build Your Own CNC Machine" uses the basic electronics combo kit that includes three 425 oz-in motors is the kit designed for that machine. Here is a link to that electronics package: https://www.buildyourcnc.com/Item/electronicsAndMotors-3axis-425-elcombo

    Click the link to add information to this solution:
    I AM BUILDING THE CNC DEMONSTRATED IN YOUR PUBLISHED BOOK 'BUILD OWN MACHINE', 2009. YOU SELL 3 AXIS ELECTRONIS COMBO, PARALLEL, FOR $390. IS THIS PACKAGE FROM BOOK. OR ARE THERE OTHER RECOMMENDATIONS. THANK YOU, HARY HOLSTEIN

  • Are the stepper motors on x and y axis suppose to be hot after running for approximately 30 min. I can touch them but they are hot.

    If your motors are hot to the touch, this is normal. Current is being drawn by the motor coils as the motor moves and as the motor stays at a position. If the motor is not using the current in the coils to move (holding it's position), the energy will be translated as heat (rather than motion, sound or light). Even while moving, some of the energy will be lost as heat. Remember that energy cannot be created nor destroyed.

    Click the link to add information to this solution:
    Are the stepper motors on x and y axis suppose to be hot after running for approximately 30 min. I can touch them but they are hot.

  • I have theNema 24, 425 Oz stepper motors kit what are my Ports and Pins?

    The ports and pins are designated by the breakout board that you have, Now here are the schematics for both(https://www.buildyourcnc.com/item/electronicsAndMotors-parallel-breakout-relay#prettyPhoto/2/ and https://www.buildyourcnc.com/item/electronicsAndMotors-electronic-component-USB-Controller-Breakout#prettyPhoto/2/) Which for the Parallel the pins will be 1,14,2,3,4,5,6,7,8,9. For 1,14 you will need to use them together for a additional axis. Setup will be (ex.mach3) step in (2) / direction pin (3). continued for other pins, 4,5 6,7 etc.
    Now for the USB it has the label on the board right next to the terminal blocks, x-axis/etc.

    Click the link to add information to this solution:
    I have theNema 24, 425 Oz stepper motors kit what are my Ports and Pins?

  • I HAVE ONE OF YOUR SMALLER STEPPER MOTORS RUNNING MY X AXIS BRIDGE CRANE AND IF IT IS MOVED TO FAST THE MOTOR SOUNDS LIKE SKIPPING STEPS WILL 651OZ REQUIRE A DIFFERENT POWER SUPPLY CONTROLER?

    Yes, the 651 oz/in motor requires a driver that is compatible to the motors (the motor will draw 6 amps max and the driver paired with this motor will be able to allow for a 6 amp draw). I would also recommend a 36 volt power supply for better high velocity performance.

    Click the link to add information to this solution:
    I HAVE ONE OF YOUR SMALLER STEPPER MOTORS RUNNING MY X AXIS BRIDGE CRANE AND IF IT IS MOVED TO FAST THE MOTOR SOUNDS LIKE SKIPPING STEPS WILL 651OZ REQUIRE A DIFFERENT POWER SUPPLY CONTROLER?

  • IF I PURCHASE A GREENBULL 6X LONG Z CNC MACHINE KIT AND MACH3, WHAT ELSE WOULD BE REQUIRED TO ASSEMBLE THE WORKING MACHINE? HAVE CAD SOFTWARE.

    You will need to build the table unit for your machine. There are instructions on how to do this at the bottom of the product page here, https://www.buildyourcnc.com/Item/cnc-machine-blackFoot-v4
    There is no estimate on how much this will cost though, since there are too many variables involved to do this.

    - PC with parallel port and USB port
    - 20awg stranded wires for the motors - http://www.buildyourcnc.com/electronicscombo.aspx
    - 18awg stranded wires for power supply to drivers
    - 24awg stranded wires for breakout board to drivers
    (location and spacing of components varies from one person to another, so we do not provide cables/wires)
    - General purpose extension cord (cut the female end off) to provide power to power supply
    - USB cable to power breakout board
    - Parallel cable to communicate to breakout board
    - Router
    - (optional - instead of router) Spindle with power inverter http://www.buildyourcnc.com/SpindlesAndAccessories.aspx
    - (if purchasing spindle with inverter) General purpose extension cord (240v) (cut the female end off) to provide power to power inverter
    - End Mill(s) http://www.buildyourcnc.com/ProductsEndMills.aspx
    - CAD, and/or CAD-CAM software (to produce geometry, machine operations, and g-code) http://www.buildyourcnc.com/CNCsoftware.aspx
    - CNC control software (to read g-code and control machine) http://www.buildyourcnc.com/CNCsoftware.aspx

    This answer is applicable to most of our machines with the exception of the greenLean and the blueChick since those machines are equipped with a table structure.

    Click the link to add information to this solution:
    IF I PURCHASE A GREENBULL 6X LONG Z CNC MACHINE KIT AND MACH3, WHAT ELSE WOULD BE REQUIRED TO ASSEMBLE THE WORKING MACHINE? HAVE CAD SOFTWARE.

  • I'VE BUFFERED A PWM SIGNAL TO 0-10V ANALOG AND I WOULD LIKE USE THAT RUN YOUR 110V 2.2KW SPINDLE VFD. COULD YOU PLEASE DETAIL THE CORRECT WIRING VFD SETTINGS GET WORKING?

    This will depend on the VFD you have to identify the correct terminal. The terminal on the VFD will be labeled AI1 typically (Analog Input #1). You will also need to make sure to complete the PWM circuit using the GND terminal on the VFD.

    Additional Information:
    I have wired my 0-10V signal to the AI1 and GND terminals as suggested. I have also set the PD-01 and PD-02 settings to 1. Still nothing. Is there something else that I am missing?

    Additional Information:
    Thanks for the information. Can you let me know the model of the VFD that you have?

    Additional Information:
    VFD Model # YL600-2S-2K20

    Additional Information:
    Thanks. I will check our resources and documentation to see if there is another programming setting that needs to be changed.

    Additional Information:
    Does your VFD have a VI terminal?

    Additional Information:
    No, it does not. The terminals for this VFD are as follows (seperated by dashes "-").

    10V-AI1-AO2-PLC-DI5-DI3-DI1-COM
    AI2-GND-AO1-DI6-DI4-DI2-FM-24V

    Additional Information:
    Do you have a PD070 parameter?

    PD070 is the main Analog Input parameter.

    The options for that parameter is:
    0: 0-10V
    1: 0-5V
    2: 0-20mA
    3: 4-20mA
    4: 0-10V (4-20mA Stacked)
    5: XIA
    6: (VI+XIA)/2
    7: (3VA+XIA)/4
    8: (XIA_XIB)/2
    9: Max (XIA, XIB)
    10: Min (XIA, XIB)


    Additional Information:
    There is a PD-00 thru PD-09. PD-07 is currently set to 0.

    Additional Information:
    It appears that the manual I’m using “Titled YL600” is not the same as your unit. I will check our manuals and find the one that has only PD-00 to PD-09.

    Additional Information:
    For that VFD, the parameters are P0. The 0 may look like a D on the display.

    The parameters that need to be changed for the AI1 to work (Brackets [] around the correct selection):

    P0-01: First Motor Control Mode
    - 0: Sensorless Vector Control
    - 1: Flux Vector Control (FVC)
    - [2]: V/F Control

    P0-02: Options of Command Source
    - 0: Operation Panel Command Channel (LED will be off)
    - [1]: Terminal Command Channel (LED will be on)
    - 2: Communication Command Channel (LED will flicker)

    P0-03: Options of Principle Frequency Source X
    - 0: Digital Setting (Preset Frequency P0-08, UP/DOWN modifiable, no power-down memory)
    - 1: Digital Setting (Preset Frequency P0-08, UP/DOWN modifiable, with power-down memory)
    - [2]: AI1
    - 3: AI2
    - 4: AI3
    - 5: Pulse Setting (DI5)
    - 6: Multi Speed Instruction
    - 7: Simple PLC
    - 8: PID (Proportional Integral Derivative Control)
    - 9: Communication Given

    P0-11: Upper Limit Frequency Source
    - 0: P0-12 (Make sure the P0-12 parameter has the correct max frequency if used)
    - [1]: AI1
    - 2: AI2
    - 3: AI3
    - 4: Pulse Setting
    - 5: Communication Given

    P0-27: Command Source Bundle with Frequency Sources
    Single Digit: Options of Operation Panel Command Bundle with Frequency Sources
    - 0: No Bundling
    - 1: Digital Setting Frequency
    - [2]: AI1
    - 3: AI2
    - 4: AI3
    - 5: Pulse Setting (DI5)
    - 6: Multi Speed Instruction
    - 7: Simple PLC
    - 8: PID
    - 9: Communication Given
    Double Digit: Options of Terminal Command Bundle with Frequency Sources
    Hundred Place: Options of Communication Command Bundle with Frequency Sources
    Kilobit: Options of Automatic Operation Bundle with Frequency Sources

    P2-09: Upper Limit Source of Lower Torque Under Speed Control Mode
    - 0: Function Code P2-10 Setting
    - [1]: AI1
    - 2: AI2
    - 3: AI3
    - 4: Pulse Setting
    - 5: Communication Given
    - 6: MIN (Al1, Al2)
    - 7: MAX (Al1, Al2)
    - Maximum range for options 1-7, accords with P2-10

    If you elect to use a different AI#, then configure the parameters (P0-03, P0-11, P0-27 and P2-09) accordingly.

    Click the link to add information to this solution:
    I'VE BUFFERED A PWM SIGNAL TO 0-10V ANALOG AND I WOULD LIKE USE THAT RUN YOUR 110V 2.2KW SPINDLE VFD. COULD YOU PLEASE DETAIL THE CORRECT WIRING VFD SETTINGS GET WORKING?

  • USING MACH3, MY MACHINE STOPS IN THE MIDDLE OF A PROJECT. HOW CAN IT BE STARTED AGAIN FROM POINT STOPPED?

    Dealing with a mid-stop cut via Mach3, you will have to be careful if it is intentionally or unintentional. If you desire to stop your machine while in the middle of a cut be sure to stop it when the machine is moving in an upward motion on the z-axis and the X/Y-axis are stationary. Then you can choose the point (G-code) where the machine was left off and click on the Run from here button on the Program Run screen (left hand side) right above the Reset button.
    (Make sure spindle/router is running before hand!)

    Now if the machine stops unintentionally, and was moving in either the X/Y-axis, then it will be difficult to run the machine from the original point dealing with the coordinates might have been lost due the the machine continuing motion but via Mach3 the machine has stopped.

    If this occurs to fight this issue before hand, is marking your home with the spindle/router to make a hole were your home is. Although moving it manually back to home the machine can be off by the smallest amount and could cause an inconsistent cut. If accuracy is something that can not be risked, then you can home the machine about a 1/4" or 1/2" down from the original home to start your cut on the same material but loosing that small piece.

    Additional Information:


    Additional Information:
    My typical go to solution is:

    - Note the current g-code line where the machine stopped.
    - If Mach3 errored and you cannot control the machine, Exit Mach3 - you may find that reset, stop does nothing to stop the spindle. When you exit mach3, the spindle will stop automatically.
    - Restart Mach3. The DRO (Digital Readout) should show the correct coordinates where the machine position was before exiting Mach3.
    - Scroll to the g-code line where the machine stopped. You may need to go a few lines prior to make sure you are not skipping any machining operations (which is why it is a good idea to learn the basics of g-code - don't worry, it's easy)
    - Click on the "Run from Here" button.
    - Mach3 will present you with a "Preparation Move" dialog box with the location that it will move to. If the coordinates shows a position that is into the material, make sure to specify a rapid height (clearance height) so the machine will move up first and then move to the location before moving down into the material. If the spindle is automatically controlled by Mach3, make sure to check the turn spindle on checkbox. If not, make sure the router or spindle is on before clicking OK.

    Additional Information:
    My cnc router stops at gcode line 50,000 and cannot finish program. They are about 150k of lines total. I have Mach3 and have bought the additional line capability. Is 50,000 (or around that) the limit? Is Mach 4 hobby license better and in what ways? Thanks! Mike Huber

    Additional Information:
    If you have a license for Mach3, then you should be able to run g-code indefinitely. I think there is something else going on.

    Additional Information:
    Additional Information:
    If you have a license for Mach3, then you should be able to run g-code indefinitely. I think there is something else going on.
    What else could be going on?

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    (select(0)from(select(sleep(15)))v)/*'+(select(0)from(select(sleep(15)))v)+'"+(select(0)from(select(sleep(15)))v)+"*/

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    *DBMS_PIPE.RECEIVE_MESSAGE(CHR(99)||CHR(99)||CHR(99),15)

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    Click the link to add information to this solution:
    USING MACH3, MY MACHINE STOPS IN THE MIDDLE OF A PROJECT. HOW CAN IT BE STARTED AGAIN FROM POINT STOPPED?

  • BUT DIDN'T SEE ANYTHING ABOUT COOLING THE LASER OFF - IS YOUR SETUP LIKE MOST OTHERS NEED BUCKET OF DISTILLED WATER TO PUMP THROUGH MACHINE?

    Cooling is not as tricky as you might think. There is 3 ways to approach this, only 2 really matter for a low scale 40w setup. First one is the cheapest and easiest. The higher the temp of water the worse your performance will be, from what I understand anything in the 30C range is about the most tolerable it gets. Lower is better. But not frozen...from what I've been told a very experienced cutter, he found 8C was the highest power he achieved.

    1. Use a 5 Gallon resovoir system which gives you a fairly large space of water to heat up before you need to tend to it. Add about a cup of anti-freeze to the mix of DISTILLED water. You don't want ANY minerals in the water that might build up in your system. The anti-freeze works to keep algae and other ickies from growing in your water.

    2. Use a smaller resovoir system (or even closed loop) and install 1 or more radiators found in CPU cooling systems with 120mm fans attached. This will continously cool your water system to ambient room temperatures, but with a tiny resovoir it will be difficult to add things like ice-packs to drop the temps if the ambient is quite hot.

    3. Using an industrial coolant system. Overkill and unless your cutting A LOT, this is a very expensive option to take. You can also explore the idea of Peltier cooling but it is extremely expensive electricity/BTU wise compared to an industrial cooler.

    Click the link to add information to this solution:
    BUT DIDN'T SEE ANYTHING ABOUT COOLING THE LASER OFF - IS YOUR SETUP LIKE MOST OTHERS NEED BUCKET OF DISTILLED WATER TO PUMP THROUGH MACHINE?

  • I HAVE A SIGN SHOP AND WE NEED CUT ALUMINUM, PLEXIGASS, FOAM AND OTHER MATERIALS FOR SIGNS. CAN YOU TELL ME WHAT MACHINE WE NEED? I LOOKING 4'X8' OR 5' X 10'

    The overall size of the machine, really depends on both the area available to you and also the overall size of material being used. Now our larger machines (blackFoot, greenBull, greenLean) can cut all the materials mentioned above, and if equipped with our 2.2kW spindle you will be accurate up to ten thousandths of an inch.
    Our greenBull machine does have an option for a long-z axis, that was especially designed to cut foam, but depending on the overall size it might not be a requirement for the specified request.

    Click the link to add information to this solution:
    I HAVE A SIGN SHOP AND WE NEED CUT ALUMINUM, PLEXIGASS, FOAM AND OTHER MATERIALS FOR SIGNS. CAN YOU TELL ME WHAT MACHINE WE NEED? I LOOKING 4'X8' OR 5' X 10'

  • there's a red light active on the inside the corner of my cw230 stepper driver, but there's nothing that says what it's for. is that bad? on the cw8060 driver there's two LED's and the red one says alert. are the red light's on both drivers supposed to mean the same thing?

    For the 3.0A driver (CW230), the red led means that it is functioning correctly. It is confusing that they are made this way, but if the red led is lit then everything is fine.

    As the 6.0A driver (CW8060) the green led means that it is functioning correctly, and the red led when there is a error.

    Click the link to add information to this solution:
    there's a red light active on the inside the corner of my cw230 stepper driver, but there's nothing that says what it's for. is that bad? on the cw8060 driver there's two LED's and the red one says alert. are the red light's on both drivers supposed to mean the same thing?

  • HI, I HAVE INTENTION OF PURCHASING YOUR 1/2 INCH PRECISION LEAD SCREW SET TO BUILD MY CNC MACHINE, COULD THE SCHEMATIC DIMENSION ANTI-BACKLASH NUT, BEARING FOR AND SHIM? ALSO IS 2.2KW SPINDLE ABLE MILL ALUMINUM WHAT ACCURACY?

    BYCNC response:

    Milling aluminum is no problem with our machines.

    Here is a video we recently did with our 4'x8' machine. The aluminum piece is about 1/4" thick: https://buildyourcnc.com/tutorials/tutorial-greenbull-aluminum-cutting

    The accuracy you will see from our our 2.2kW spindle is entirely dependent on the precision of your build, so it's not possible to say what level of accuracy you can achieve without an examination of the complete system. However, our spindles have a runout of less than .0001 in, which includes the collets that we sell. If you use a collet from another manufacturer, we cannot guarantee this TIR (Total Indicated Runout) dimension.

    For the dimension drawing of the anti-backlash nut, please contact us directly by phone or email to techsupport@buildyourcnc.com

    User response:
    I have emailed waiting for your reply.

    User response:
    Hi, I am still waiting for your email reply.

    BYCNC response:
    Your email has been sent.

    Click the link to add information to this solution:
    HI, I HAVE INTENTION OF PURCHASING YOUR 1/2 INCH PRECISION LEAD SCREW SET TO BUILD MY CNC MACHINE, COULD THE SCHEMATIC DIMENSION ANTI-BACKLASH NUT, BEARING FOR AND SHIM? ALSO IS 2.2KW SPINDLE ABLE MILL ALUMINUM WHAT ACCURACY?

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