The Mach3 USB interface board requires 24V relays externally. There are no relays on the mach3 usb board. If you use an external relay on the mach3 usb board, the relay connects to the V+ which is 24V and the output pin is the return.

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I understand what you are saying. Does your relay board work with the Mach3 USB board? If not, what relay board do you suggest to work with this usb controller?

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Our relay board works with our parallel breakout board. An off the shelf SSR (Solid State Relay) made for 24V should work fine.

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I bought a 'BuildyourCNC V1' relay board to go with my mach3 usb controller. I have been sent a 'Songle' relay. It's not the one in your picture and it's got different connections, for which there isn't a wiring diagram. The one I ordered says it is 5v, this one seems to be saying it's a 24v unit. Can you please explain what has happened? Thanks

The Mach3 USB interface board requires 24V relays externally. There are no relays on the mach3 usb board. If you use an external relay on the mach3 usb board, the relay connects to the V+ which is 24V and the output pin is the return.

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I understand what you are saying. Does your relay board work with the Mach3 USB board? If not, what relay board do you suggest to work with this usb controller?

Additional Information:
Our relay board works with our parallel breakout board. An off the shelf SSR (Solid State Relay) made for 24V should work fine.

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I bought a 'BuildyourCNC V1' relay board to go with my mach3 usb controller. I have been sent a 'Songle' relay. It's not the one in your picture and it's got different connections, for which there isn't a wiring diagram. The one I ordered says it is 5v, this one seems to be saying it's a 24v unit. Can you please explain what has happened? Thanks

I also place the controller very close to the drivers (on the back of the gantry). All of the cables are shielded. The only long cables are the mains power cables and the USB cable. The USB cable is shielded and contains active repeaters.

There is no problem putting all of the electronics in a box and using long cables to the motors. This is the way I did it for a very long time.

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Great site. I saw your videos of wiring the Mach3 USB controller. You place the drivers next to the Steppers. This means that you have very long leads to the USB Board? What about the placement of the controlling PC? Is it a problem to have the USB board, PSUs and Drivers in a control box and long leads to the steppers? Thank you.

If the sensors are NC (normally closed) you can wire them in series. If the sensors are NO (Normally Open) you can still wire them to the same input, but the wiring needs to be in parallel (like a ladder). I have more information on the following video:

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[788] Thanks for the oportunity to ask, I am building a cnc and using npn closed sensors could you help me with the conection of these, do i still connect them in series if i use more than two in each axis. Also you mention that a stop switch should be connected grd and input to the controller would that be done after the 24v power supply. Thanks r

I would not recommend slaving an axis using the method of taking an additional axis from the USB interface. Instead, wire both drivers to a single axis on the USB interface. This will insure perfect signal output to both drivers. If you requre the motors to spin in opposite directions, simply wire one of the motors to the driver reversing the coil A and B connections, or use a hex inverter (https://www.buildyourcnc.com/tutorials/Tutorial-Two-Motors-Spinning-Oppositely-On-Single-Axis).

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I purchased a USB Breakout board, motors and drivers, paid for CNC USB Controller Software and I CAN NOT "Slave" an axis, but there is an option to do that. The moment I connect USB Breakout Board "Slave" option becomes shaded and I can no longer select it (becomes not functional). What is going on? Need help asap. Thanks

You want to look for the analog input terminals in the wiring diagram in the manual for your VFD. I believe the VFD you have, the XSY-AT1 has three terminals that will accept an analog voltage to adjust the speed. These terminals are:
COM or ACM - this is where the ACM from the controller will connect
VI/CI - The AVI will connect to this terminal which is the actual voltage level that will determine the speed from 0 to 10V.
10V - This connects to the 10V terminal of the controller which will provide 10V to the controller allowing the top voltage reference for the controller. This will provide a 0 to 10V range for the AVI or VI/CI terminals, and if 5V is available on the VFD, then the range will be 0 to 5V.

The parameter you need to change in the VFD is P10 which will change the source of the frequency, either the control panel which is the default (0 or 1, keys or potentiometer - dial, if that is available on the VFD), External analog signals which are the ACM, VI/CI and 10V/5V terminals in the VFD, or the RS485 which is a serial connection to the computer. You want to set this parameter to the External terminals which may be 2, but check your manual for the proper value.

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I'm hooking up the VFD Controller to the USB controller to control the speed of the spindle. In your video you have the wire from the USB controller to the ACM of the VFD controller. The VFD controller I have is a XSY-AT1 model AT1-2200s. It does not have an ACM contact. It does however have a SP1 contact, is this where I land that wire?

The lasing area for the blackTooth v2 is 20" x 24" or 580 x 600 mm.

The dimensions for the machine in general will be on the main product page when the videos are completed.

Thank you for the kind words.

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The lasing area for the blackTooth v2 is 20" x 24" or 580 x 600 mm.

The dimensions for the machine in general will be on the main product page when the videos are completed.

Thank you for the kind words.

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Hi, question about blacktoothv2 laser engraver, what is the cutting area of the laser machine as I don't have clue how big it is, and are you’ll just use it like that ore it’ll have a moving Z axis, waiting for video 5, interested how it will progress. It’ll be very useful if you’d mention some dimensions during the installation. Thanks and keep up good work

The lasing area for the blackTooth v2 is 20" x 24" or 580 x 600 mm.

The dimensions for the machine in general will be on the main product page when the videos are completed.

Thank you for the kind words.

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Hi, question about blacktoothv2 laser engraver, what is the cutting area of the laser machine as I don't have clue how big it is, and are you’ll just use it like that ore it’ll have a moving Z axis, waiting for video 5, interested how it will progress. It’ll be very useful if you’d mention some dimensions during the installation. Thanks and keep up good work

Is the cable between the mach3 USB and the YL260 shielded. If that does not solve the problem, add an induction coil to the cable to reduce any current fluctuations.

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Hello. I have bought an RnR Motion Controller and a YL260-A and I have it set up to the AVI from RnR to the VI1 of YL620-A but I'm getting that the RPM varies not like interference but like a drop from max value to min value. What could be happening?

The Mach3 USB will not work with Linux CNC. You can use our parallel breakout baord instead (if you have a computer that has a parallel port available).

Here is the link to that interface:
https://www.buildyourcnc.com/item/electronicsAndMotors-parallel-breakout-relay

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Hello. I'm currently building my first CNC router, and I'm powering it with a 3 axis electronics kit that was purchased through your site. I chose to get the Mach 3 USB Breakout board, but now I'm wanting to try to use Linux CNC to work with the computer I have available. Will that work with this board?

If you have received a part that does not work as advertised, or does not function properly, we will ship you a replacement. Please contact customerservice@buildyourcnc.com to make these arrangements.

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I would like to re-order another breakout board, but I would like each output tested beofore shipping. I have recieved a breakout board where the mist coolant doesnt work, and the y-axis sends a 1.5vdc signal voltage. They should all be 5v as you know, or the driver will not read.

Did you install the Mach3 USB plug-in?

Make sure that you followed all of the steps and diagrams on the following page:
https://www.buildyourcnc.com/item/electronicsAndMotors-electronic-component-breakout-Mach3-USB-Board

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ABSOLUTELY NOTHING WORKS. I HAVE ALL STRUCTURE AND MECHICAL PARTS OF THE BLACKTOOTH CUTTER DONE. HOWEVER WHEN WIRE UP STEPPER MOTOR TO DRIVER. THAT MACH 3 USB CONTROLLER BOARD, TRY JOG MOTOR, WORKS! PREVIOSULY HAD PLANET CNC BREAKOUT HOWRVER, ONLY MOVED MOTORS IN ONE DIRECTION COULDNT CHANGE IT. ANY HELP WOULD BE APRECIATED

The Mach3 USB interface board requires 24V relays externally. There are no relays on the mach3 usb board. If you use an external relay on the mach3 usb board, the relay connects to the V+ which is 24V and the output pin is the return.

Additional Information:
I understand what you are saying. Does your relay board work with the Mach3 USB board? If not, what relay board do you suggest to work with this usb controller?

Additional Information:
Our relay board works with our parallel breakout board. An off the shelf SSR (Solid State Relay) made for 24V should work fine.

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I have your Mach3 usb interface board and am interested in the relay board to turn plasma torch on/off. I have a different relay board that doesn't work, it needs 0/5v from output pin to trigger and the usb board doesn't put out 5 volts. Does this relay board need 5v on output or will work fine with this usb controller?

Many shielded cables come in various materials and designs, so having one with a copper mesh covering the inner insulator wire is no problem. We currently use a extension cord found locally at a hardware store and include one 18G wire for ground. So a specific shielded cable is not a required, unless being used next to specific and sensitive electronics that are extremely sensitive to noise and voltage interference than a shielded cable is required.

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I purchased a 2.2 spindle a while back and went to the electrical supply house to but shielded cable for the power run, I was on the web a while back and saw a picture of shielded cable that didn't look like what I had bought. should it have a copper like mesh wraped around the inner insulation. Thanks

Sure, our blueChick and blackToe CNC Routers are considered relatively small machines at 1'x3' and 2'x4' respectively. They both use NEMA 23/24 motors. We recommend connecting the machines to either Mach3 or LinuxCNC and come with the necessary interface for either control software. You will need a computer for the control software and if you desire LinuxCNC, you will need a parallel port. Mach3 will accept either parallel port, or USB interface.

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I recently purchased the linksprite cnc engraving router and was wondering if your 3 axis small kit would be ok? the engraver came with nema 17 motors and a arduino board but but not liking the grbl control. could you point me in the right direction .Thanks.

The 2.5 amp driver can only accept a power supply between 12 volts and 24 volts. If a 36 volt power supply is used for this driver, the main driver chip will exceed its maximum voltage rating and cause failure.

If you need to spin your motor faster, you can either use a more appropriate driver (i.e. 3.0 amp driver) or you can change the mechanical parts so the axis has faster travel.

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Can I connect a 36V power supply to 2.5 AMP Stepper Motor Driver. On the actual driver it shows 12V - 24V, but in the description and data sheet it indicates that it can accept 8V - 45V. Will I benefit from more powerful power supply. Thanks

This sounds like a problem with the step (pulse) signal. The driver motors receive two signals from the computer via the board -- one is high or low and tells the motors which direction to turn, one is a square wave pulsed signal(quick that tells the motor to turn or a constant high signal that tells the motor to maintain its position. With an oscilliscope you can check for proper signal at the board. If you bought the board from us, please contact us to arrange a return authorization.

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Y axis on usb controller not working. The motor gets power and holds but will not turn. I tried switching the same wires, driver, and motor over to the A axis on the controller and it works fine like that. I have double, and triple checked the wiring

You should have no problem connecting the Pokeys57CNC controller to the drivers of your machine as long as the drivers have step (Pulse or PUL) and direction (DIR) terminals. You will need the cable pack that is sold separately so you can connect the headers/connectors of the pokeys57cnc controller to the drivers using ribbon cables.

I show this process in great detail on this page:
https://buildyourcnc.com/item/electronicsAndMotors-electronic-component-breakout-Mach4-mach3-USB-ethernet-Board

Is you scroll down on the page, you will see a set of videos that show the process step-by-step.

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I have a ShopBot CNC that was converted to Mach 3. The controller has gone out. I pourchased your Pokeys57 board, but I'm not sure I have everything I need. I think my motor drivers are OK, but am not sure how to wire them to what I purchased from you. Need Help. How can we make this work, or do I need a different board to distribute the movement signals to my drivers?

There is a diagram on the breakout board page that covers this topic you can find here: https://www.buildyourcnc.com/images/breakout%20suggested%20diagram.jpg

The "P" is the relay input. The "O" is the normally open connection and the "S" is the normally closed connection.

Hope this helps. Thanks.

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Recently ordered relay board from you, there was no documents pertaining to signal in, gnd,5v,etc. Figured out the signal, .gnd and 5 v. Problem is I don’t see where O S P are to be connected?, I assume OS normally open or closed, and P don’t have a clue. Although I see the 2 up arrows and one down arrow. Thanks in advance Richard