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Question #: 765

Question: What else to I need to purchase along with the "3 Axis Electronics Combo w/ USB Interface Board" to get the electronics up and running? (software, 5V power supply, 4-conductor wire, etc.)

Current Solution

Here is a list of the parts needed to get the electronics combo functioning (parallel or USB interface options):

- 22 or 24 gauge stranded hookup wire to connect all of the drivers to the USB or parallel interface (terminal to terminal connections),
- 18 gauge stranded hookup wire to connect the drivers to the power supply,
- a power cable (extension cord) to connect from the power outlet to the power supply,
- 4 conductor cable to connect the drivers to the stepper motors,
- a USB cable to connect from the computer to the USB interface (or for power to the parallel interface),
- for the parallel interface, a parallel cable is needed (male to male db-25),
- a computer (for parallel interface, the computer will need a parallel port and if the computer does not contain a parallel interface, the motherboard may have a header for it, or you can purchase a parallel adapter to plug into the motherboard, very inexpensive),
- cnc control software: for the USB interface, you will need planet-cnc software, for the parallel interface, you can use any industry standard cnc control software (the typical is Mach3 for Windows, or EMC2 or Linuxcnc for Linux (Linuxcnc.org).

5v power supply is not needed. The 5 volts signal level power is derived from the computer through USB on both types of interfaces.

Respond:

Other Possible Solutions to this Question

  • If I purchase the [blackToe 2x4 v4.1 CNC Machine Kit - USB Electronics - Table Included] all I would need for this CNC to be fully operational is a laptop with mach 3 software and a router. Is this correct?

    if you purchased the USB interface, you will need planet-cnc software rather than Mach3, and you will need a usb cable to connect the usb interface to the computer.

    The blackToe 2x4 CNC Machine Kit with optional table will need wire to connect the electronics. Don't forget to get some end mills to use for cutting the intended material.


    Additional Information:



    Additional Information:



    Additional Information:

    Click the link to add information to this solution:
    If I purchase the [blackToe 2x4 v4.1 CNC Machine Kit - USB Electronics - Table Included] all I would need for this CNC to be fully operational is a laptop with mach 3 software and a router. Is this correct?

  • What would I need to purchase to increase the Z axis stepper motor up one size from the one that comes with the Blacktoe 4.1 with computer? I can't get Patrick to answer e-mails, so I'll try here.

    Thanks for the question. The blackToe z-axis motor is a NEMA 24 425 oz-in stepping motor and the next step up is a NEMA 34 651 oz-in motor located here: https://buildyourcnc.com/item/electronicsAndMotors-nema34-651ozin


    To make it work on the blackToe CNC machine, you would need to fabricate a new mount and the top bearing mount, or request us to fabricate it for you by calling the office.

    Curious, why the need to increase the size? If the motor is having a difficult time, there may be a deeper mechanical issue at play. One issue you may have is that the bearings are needing shim washers to separate the inner and outer races. If the two races are rubbing against the coupling or collar, the bearing may be difficult to turn under the weight of the assembly. If there is too much friction between the anti-backlash nut and the lead screw, you can add some 2-in-1 oil, or other similar lubricant.

    Thank you for using our Customer Service Live. Patrick often answers these questions. We prefer this system over email as these questions will benefit others.

    If you have additional questions or need more explanation relating to this question, please add to this answer.

    User response:
    I have added the shim washer between the bearing and coupling and have always used a light oil on the lead screw. I halved the acceleration on the Z-axis. Then I re-ran a topo that took two hours on the finish pass. No change in my results - the Z-axis slowly dropped until when the program finished and everything went back to the start point, the Z axis was lower by 0.378 inches than when it started at 0.800 above the surface.

    Any suggestions would be appreciated. Maybe I need more shim washers in the assembly between all the bearing surfaces?

    buildyourcnc response:
    Before you add a larger motor, check these first:

    1. take the motor off by remove only the motor screws and removing the motor as well as the coupling half that is secured to the motor shaft.

    2. Turn the lead screw by hand. This will still be connected to the z-axis assembly by the anti-backlash nut, so you will feel the resistance in the upward motion of the z-axis. Does it feel relatively easy to turn, or very difficult?

    3. If the resistance is relatively normal with respect to gravity and normal friction between the anti-backlash nut and the screw, then you may want to half the velocity as well on the z-axis motor tuning, and even reduce the acceleration a bit more. Doing topographical layouts should not require fast z-axis motor travel. Be careful not to lower the z-axis acceleration if you are using constant velocity as this can make the topo "too smooth" where there may be features such as cliffs present. If you need to lower acceleration drastically, then use exact stop rather than constant velocity.

    Another gotcha that may be causing this phenomenon is motor cable/wire chafing. We had this same issue crop up where two wires were shorting only at a specific position because the wires moved just enough to cause these wires to connect. This was caused by a zip tie. Zip ties have a very sharp edge that can cut the insulation of the wire. A hint of this problem is if this phenomenon is only present after working successfully with the machine for a greater period of time.

    Use response:
    I bought a new lead screw, bearings, antibacklash nut, and shim washers (WHICH NEED TO BE IN YOUR ONLINE CATALOG) and installed them. (Like another commentor on this site, my lead screw wouldn't go through the bearings. Simple solution was to chuck it into my drill press and 400 grit smooth it until a snug fit was had. Lowest RPM.)

    Anyhow, I ran another Topo yesterday and got the same results. The wires are not frayed, the acceleration has been halved, the speed reduced to a crawl. When testing manually, twisting the Z axis up was very hard to do compared to lowering it.

    I have thought about a counterbalance of some type, but that introduces lots of other problems.

    Anything you can thing of will certainly help.

    I can send pictures, etc.

    Thanks!

    Buildyourcnc response
    What router/spindle do you have installed?

    User response:
    The one you sold me - 110 V, 1.5KW water cooled.

    User response:
    This problem of the z axis drift has been evident since I first started using the machine a couple of years ago. Lithophanes, stipples, topographic and other heavy z axis users have been particularly bad. It is to the point that I am turning away opportunities for lack of capability.

    Buildyourcnc response:
    I think all options may be exhausted. We will design a new mount that holds a large motor. Please give us a call so we can arrange to send that out to you.

    We just determined that the existing mount need to be adjusted by about one millimeter for the main mounting hoes for the larger NEMA 34 motor to fit. The overall mount will look the same but the outside hole spacing will be adjusted by a very small amount to match the larger motor mounting holes. This new adjustment will be included with all new machines. We will send you the new mount (consisting of two structural pieces) and the longer screws that will be needed to extend to fit the motor frame thickness.

    Additional Information:


    Additional Information:
    They didn't send the longer screws, nor the new required coupling, but I finally got it together and it works just fine. It returns to precise Z zero every time.

    But the motor runs pretty hot because I think it should be run at a higher voltage than the current power supply provides.

    Any new sales of Blacktoe 4.1 should include this modification.

    Cheers.

    Click the link to add information to this solution:
    What would I need to purchase to increase the Z axis stepper motor up one size from the one that comes with the Blacktoe 4.1 with computer? I can't get Patrick to answer e-mails, so I'll try here.

  • Good evening, if I wanted to use your inductive proximity sensor's with your USB interface board what would I need besides the sensors I would be using 5 of the sensors. I have a 48V 12amp power supply. Thank you

    I would suggest using the NPN proximity sensor for the Mach3 USB or the Pokeys57cnc. The proximity sensors have a top DC voltage limit of 30 volts, so it would be best to use the 24V power supply that is used to power the controller. Both controllers have a 24V power requirement, so that is convenient.

    The blue wire of the proximity sensor is the GND wire and is connected to the 24V power supply's V- terminal. The brown wire is the positive wire and is connected to the V+ terminal of the 24V power supply. The black wire is the signal wire and is connected to the input terminal of the controller.

    Click the link to add information to this solution:
    Good evening, if I wanted to use your inductive proximity sensor's with your USB interface board what would I need besides the sensors I would be using 5 of the sensors. I have a 48V 12amp power supply. Thank you

  • The electronics for my current cnc machine has a 36v 8.8 amp power supply. Is this power supply sufficient to power my new Mach3 USB interface?

    The Mach3 USB interface card uses 5V (powered from the computer's USB) and a 24v to power the inputs, outputs and spindle control

    the mach3 usb interface can be found here:

    https://www.buildyourcnc.com/item/electronicsAndMotors-electronic-component-breakout-Mach3-USB-Board

    But the mach3 usb does not absolutely need the 24V supply. The 24v supply is only needed if you will be using limit switches (I1-4), VFD controlled automatically and for use with the outputs (O1-4)


    Additional Information:
    The 36v 8.8 amp power supply we typically recommend is for powering the stepper motor drivers.

    Click the link to add information to this solution:
    The electronics for my current cnc machine has a 36v 8.8 amp power supply. Is this power supply sufficient to power my new Mach3 USB interface?

  • What do I need to purchase that doesn't come with the electronics packages?

    Here is a list of the parts needed to get the electronics combo functioning (parallel or USB interface options):

    - 22 or 24 gauge stranded hookup wire to connect all of the drivers to the USB or parallel interface (terminal to terminal connections),
    - 18 gauge stranded hookup wire to connect the drivers to the power supply,
    - a power cable (extension cord) to connect from the power outlet to the power supply,
    - 4 conductor cable to connect the drivers to the stepper motors,
    - a USB cable to connect from the computer to the USB interface (or for power to the parallel interface),
    - for the parallel interface, a parallel cable is needed (male to male db-25),
    - a computer (for parallel interface, the computer will need a parallel port and if the computer does not contain a parallel interface, the motherboard may have a header for it, or you can purchase a parallel adapter to plug into the motherboard, very inexpensive),
    - cnc control software: for the USB interface, you will need planet-cnc software, for the parallel interface, you can use any industry standard cnc control software (the typical is Mach3 for Windows, or EMC2 or Linuxcnc for Linux (Linuxcnc.org).

    5v power supply is not needed. The 5 volts signal level power is derived from the computer through USB on both types of interfaces.

    Click the link to add information to this solution:
    What do I need to purchase that doesn't come with the electronics packages?

  • Can I purchase a computer off Amazon (I have a machine I want to use) and still use the USB interface to drive it with LinuxCNC?

    You will need to build the table unit for your machine. There are instructions on how to do this at the bottom of the product page here, https://www.buildyourcnc.com/Item/cnc-machine-blackFoot-v4
    There is no estimate on how much this will cost though, since there are too many variables involved to do this.

    - PC with parallel port and USB port
    - 20awg stranded wires for the motors - http://www.buildyourcnc.com/electronicscombo.aspx
    - 18awg stranded wires for power supply to drivers
    - 24awg stranded wires for breakout board to drivers
    (location and spacing of components varies from one person to another, so we do not provide cables/wires)
    - General purpose extension cord (cut the female end off) to provide power to power supply
    - USB cable to power breakout board
    - Parallel cable to communicate to breakout board
    - Router
    - (optional - instead of router) Spindle with power inverter http://www.buildyourcnc.com/SpindlesAndAccessories.aspx
    - (if purchasing spindle with inverter) General purpose extension cord (240v) (cut the female end off) to provide power to power inverter
    - End Mill(s) http://www.buildyourcnc.com/ProductsEndMills.aspx
    - CAD, and/or CAD-CAM software (to produce geometry, machine operations, and g-code) http://www.buildyourcnc.com/CNCsoftware.aspx
    - CNC control software (to read g-code and control machine) http://www.buildyourcnc.com/CNCsoftware.aspx

    This answer is applicable to most of our machines with the exception of the greenLean and the blueChick since those machines are equipped with a table structure.

    Additional Information:



    Additional Information:



    Additional Information:

    Click the link to add information to this solution:
    Can I purchase a computer off Amazon (I have a machine I want to use) and still use the USB interface to drive it with LinuxCNC?

  • if I wanted to use your inductive proximity sensor's with your USB interface board what would I need besides the sensors I would be using 5 of the sensors.

    I would suggest using the NPN proximity sensor for the Mach3 USB or the Pokeys57cnc. The proximity sensors have a top DC voltage limit of 30 volts, so it would be best to use the 24V power supply that is used to power the controller. Both controllers have a 24V power requirement, so that is convenient.

    The blue wire of the proximity sensor is the GND wire and is connected to the 24V power supply's V- terminal. The brown wire is the positive wire and is connected to the V+ terminal of the 24V power supply. The black wire is the signal wire and is connected to the input terminal of the controller.

    Click the link to add information to this solution:
    if I wanted to use your inductive proximity sensor's with your USB interface board what would I need besides the sensors I would be using 5 of the sensors.

  • I am interested in the 3 axis combo USB option. I notice you endorse the Planet-CNC for use with this but will Mach3 interface well with the USB beak out Board?
  • can I purchase just the parallel controller board? I purchased the usb option 4 axis combo and would like to also try the system with my parallel port computer. Any help with this will be greatly appreciated; my goal is to implement mach4.
  • In the 3 Axis Electronics Combo, what is the AC input of the power supply (110v or 220v??). is it possible to specify a certain voltage when ordering?

    In our 3-Axis electronics kit, the power supply's provided are capable of both 110V-220V. You have the capability to switch between both in case you might decide to run 220v in the near future or will relocate where 110v is being used.

    Additional Information:
    Connect spindle to the board



    Additional Information:



    Additional Information:

    Click the link to add information to this solution:
    In the 3 Axis Electronics Combo, what is the AC input of the power supply (110v or 220v??). is it possible to specify a certain voltage when ordering?

  • I am looking at yur hardware kit, plans and dvd, which electronics kit matches these plans and what else do I need to complete this project. Thank you

    The standard electronics combo with 3 NEMA 24 motors is suitable for the scratch build machine. In addition to electronics you will need a computer, software, and a router or spindle.

    Click the link to add information to this solution:
    I am looking at yur hardware kit, plans and dvd, which electronics kit matches these plans and what else do I need to complete this project. Thank you

  • I purchased a 3040 CNC router off eBay a year ago and would like to change the controls. The steppers are 185oz.in motors. My question do i need to purchase a interface board and break out boards?

    When dealing with 3rd party machines, we have a universal setup that will fit almost any other machine, although please take in consideration the specifications in which your stepper motors and drivers are used and set to!
    Now changing the controls, would be more or less changing the Breakout board/interface board to a different one that might use a different program to run your machine. Usually you will not need to change your interface board or breakout board, unless the 3rd party manufacture made it specifically to that set up.

    Click the link to add information to this solution:
    I purchased a 3040 CNC router off eBay a year ago and would like to change the controls. The steppers are 185oz.in motors. My question do i need to purchase a interface board and break out boards?

  • I recently purchased 3 axis electronics with the USB controller board. I'm trying to install an E-stop switch. Where do I connect that on the controller board?

    There are many ways to wire an emergency stop switch. The simplest, and arguably the most certain, way is to wire the switch into the incoming power so that throwing the switch kills all power to every part of the machine. Here is a diagram showing how a customer wired such a switch on their blackTooth laser which you could adapt to your needs. http://www.buildyourtools.com/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=12&t=4872

    Alternatively, you could use an input pin on your USB board. The wiring would depend on whether and how you might be using limit switches (single or multiple switches; normally open or normally closed). Our website datasheet for the USB board is at https://buildyourcnc.com/item/electronicsAndMotors-electronic-component-USB-Controller-Breakout#prettyPhoto/2/ and shows how to configure the switches for each set up. If you use this method, you'd essentially wire the e-stop as a limit switch.

    Click the link to add information to this solution:
    I recently purchased 3 axis electronics with the USB controller board. I'm trying to install an E-stop switch. Where do I connect that on the controller board?

  • I recently purchased 3 axis electronics with the USB controller board. I'm trying to install an E-stop switch. Where do I connect that on the controller board?

    There are many ways to wire an emergency stop switch. The simplest, and arguably the most certain, way is to wire the switch into the incoming power so that throwing the switch kills all power to every part of the machine. Here is a diagram showing how a customer wired such a switch on their blackTooth laser which you could adapt to your needs. http://www.buildyourtools.com/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=12&t=4872

    Alternatively, you could use an input pin on your USB board. The wiring would depend on whether and how you might be using limit switches (single or multiple switches; normally open or normally closed). Our website datasheet for the USB board is at https://buildyourcnc.com/item/electronicsAndMotors-electronic-component-USB-Controller-Breakout#prettyPhoto/2/ and shows how to configure the switches for each set up. If you use this method, you'd essentially wire the e-stop as a limit switch.

    Click the link to add information to this solution:
    I recently purchased 3 axis electronics with the USB controller board. I'm trying to install an E-stop switch. Where do I connect that on the controller board?

  • I AM INTERESTED IN THE 3 AXIS COMBO USB OPTION. NOTICE YOU ENDORSE PLANET-CNC FOR USE WITH THIS BUT WILL MACH3 INTERFACE WELL BEAK OUT BOARD?
  • What do I need to purchase from you to get me running. I have planet cnc control board but it is difficult contacting them when I need help.

    Software specific questions for Planet-CNC will have to come from them or other sources as we are not fully equipped to troubleshoot all issues. If the issue is related to motor tuning or setup involving our electronics, then we will gladly assist you. You may contact techsupport@buildyourcnc.com with inquiries.

    Click the link to add information to this solution:
    What do I need to purchase from you to get me running. I have planet cnc control board but it is difficult contacting them when I need help.

  • [575] Hi can I use a zeroing block with mock three interface board and do you have one I can purchase and directions on how to set up

    Yes, you can use a conductive metal to serve as a zeroing block for the Z axis. All you need to do is connect the block (conductive metal) to one of the 4 inputs on the controller. The end mill must be connected to the DCM terminal (the GND of the 24V power supply) of the controller. In the inputs dialog box (config-ports and pins-inputs). Under the probe line, enter port 3 and the pin used for the block.

    Click the link to add information to this solution:
    [575] Hi can I use a zeroing block with mock three interface board and do you have one I can purchase and directions on how to set up

  • I have your Nema 24 electronics kit and am having problems with the Z axis dropping over time. I am using a PC 8902 motor. Any ideas on what the problem is? What should be the motor tuning values in Mach3? Thanks

    Make sure all your bolts/screws are tighten correctly and if using a lead screw make sure your anti-backlash nut is not offset. Now a default setting will be 10101100 for your driver dip switch settings and in motor tuning (mach3) 1600 steps per, 400.02 velocity, 4 in acceleration. now the acceleration and velocity can be adjusted to move your machine faster, but if set to high they could stall. Make sure you have the correct wiring from your motor to your driver (https://www.buildyourcnc.com/Documents/PN.SM60HT86-2008BF-U%20(inhouse%20PN.60BYGH303-13)%20(1).pdf).

    Click the link to add information to this solution:
    I have your Nema 24 electronics kit and am having problems with the Z axis dropping over time. I am using a PC 8902 motor. Any ideas on what the problem is? What should be the motor tuning values in Mach3? Thanks

  • I am looking at getting a 4x8 cnc router kit. I am having a hard time figuring out what is included in the kit and what else i will need to buy with it to get off the ground and running. Is there someone i could talk to to walk me through it? If not, can you break down what all I need to go from scratch to a running set up? thanks

    Hi, you can call me at the 281-815-7701 number. Please leave a message when you call as most of the calls are screened to avoid scam calls. You can also email me at customerservice@buildyourcnc.com or phooddaniel@berkeley.edu.

    The newer kits that are featured on the home page include everything you need except a computer and software. The legacy CNC routers that are located in the CNC machines menu selection include all of the parts for the gantry, but you will need to build the table yourself. All of the information on the measurements to be followed for the table construction are on the machine pages.

    Click the link to add information to this solution:
    I am looking at getting a 4x8 cnc router kit. I am having a hard time figuring out what is included in the kit and what else i will need to buy with it to get off the ground and running. Is there someone i could talk to to walk me through it? If not, can you break down what all I need to go from scratch to a running set up? thanks

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