In the scenario where the motors are not moving, do you see the red LED on the Mach3 USB controller blinking fast?

- If not, then there is a communication issue between the computer and the Mach3 USB controller.

- If you do see the blinking, then there is an issue between the Mach3 USB controller and the drivers, or a power supply issue (the power supply that is connected to the drivers that power the motors).

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Asus Laptop win11 running Mach3USB and rnrmotion board. Sporadic event. Everything starts and looks correct. Readouts show motor movement with arrow keys, however, motors don't move. Came back 1 day later to resolve and everything worked fine. this has happened 3 time in the last year. I am having this problem right now. What should I do?

Since you mentioned there is a nasty smell, I'm wondering if there might have been a issue with the power supply. Can you email us your name for the order and specific voltage you are using for the redFly? at techsupport@buildyourcnc.com. Also I want to mention if you have the USB cord plugged in to the redFly if it has the parallel interface board?

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When I first hooked up my redFly and was manually testing all the axes, everything was going well, then my Y axis stopped working all together, and now my X and Z have stopped also and my redFly has a nasty smell coming from it and none of the stepper motors seem to be getting power.

If your laser machine needs to reflect off of three mirrors before it finally passes the focal lens, then I would recommend realigning the laser.

You might also want to see if the nozzle is hot. If so, then the laser energy is hitting some of the nozzle body and not all of the laser energy is exiting the small aperture of the nozzle. To determine if this is the cause, remove the nozzle and try the operation again to see if you have better results. If the results are better with the nozzle off, then realign the mirrors. If you are still having difficulty getting the laser energy to exit the nozzle, increase the diameter of the nozzle aperture.

If you are still having poor results, take a look at the focal lens and the mirrors for any debris. An unclean lens and mirrors are a common cause of poor lasing performance.

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Is this a problem with the tube or the power supply? The tube is illuminated but I don't get clear firing to the piece. This is a rastering work and I get faint results and then it will be fine, then nothing. Tube changes from pink to solid line purple even when vectoring or manually holding the fire button. https://youtu.be/rX5xZoM6_bk

Stepper motors are known to make noises while function, however this does not affect accuracy or job function. However we recommend to check your wiring for solid connections, and for good connectivity!



On a personal note, here is one cool video dealing with making songs with stepper motors!

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I bought and built the Blacktooth laser cutter. It works, but one of the stepper motors makes a loud static hiss a second after the CNC power supply is turned on or off, and makes loud tweets and twirps when running. It seems to operate fine otherwise. I was wondering if it was "going bad" or if that is normal?

The fact that you cannot move the motors with the keyboard serves as a clue to a couple possibilities.

- The software may not be communicating with parallel port. (One possibility may be that your step pins are not low active, or vice versa depending on your drivers).
- You may not be in the correct tab of Mach3. Make sure you are in the Program Run tab.
- The jog on/off button on the program run screen may not be lit (invoked).

This address below shows the complete troubleshooting for this type of situation. It will show how to test each pin at the parallel port at the back of the computer and everything else associated with correctly wiring the electronics.

https://buildyourcnc.com/CNCElectronicsandWiring.aspx




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6 axis robot with Mach3 Card 6 Axis Motion Controller

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I bought Mach 4 and Mach 3 USB Motion card STB4100. The installation Manual you direct me to is for installing board with Mach3. Where can I find directions for the combination of products I bought? The axis motors are held stationary by the magnets but when I try to jog an axis from mach 4 program, no movement.

I am not using a parallell port. I am using a USB.

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I bought Mach 4 and Mach 3 USB Motion card STB4100. The installation Manual you direct me to is for installing board with Mach3. Where can I find directions for the combination of products I bought? The axis motors are held stationary by the magnets but when I try to jog an axis from mach 4 program, no movement.

The Mach3 USB will not work with Linux CNC. You can use our parallel breakout baord instead (if you have a computer that has a parallel port available).

Here is the link to that interface:
https://www.buildyourcnc.com/item/electronicsAndMotors-parallel-breakout-relay

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Hello. I'm currently building my first CNC router, and I'm powering it with a 3 axis electronics kit that was purchased through your site. I chose to get the Mach 3 USB Breakout board, but now I'm wanting to try to use Linux CNC to work with the computer I have available. Will that work with this board?

If your laser machine needs to reflect off of three mirrors before it finally passes the focal lens, then I would recommend realigning the laser.

You might also want to see if the nozzle is hot. If so, then the laser energy is hitting some of the nozzle body and not all of the laser energy is exiting the small aperture of the nozzle. To determine if this is the cause, remove the nozzle and try the operation again to see if you have better results. If the results are better with the nozzle off, then realign the mirrors. If you are still having difficulty getting the laser energy to exit the nozzle, increase the diameter of the nozzle aperture.

If you are still having poor results, take a look at the focal lens and the mirrors for any debris. An unclean lens and mirrors are a common cause of poor lasing performance.

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The tube is illuminated but I don't get clear firing to the piece. This is a rastering work and I get faint results and then it will be fine, then nothing. Tube changes from pink to solid line purple even when vectoring or manually holding the fire button.

My apologies for not getting back to you. We always answer the phones during business hours, so I would try that first. Our emails on Monday generally is stacked up as we are closed during the weekend. We can try your g-code here. Please send the g-code to the techsupport@buildyourcnc.com email address and we will test the code to see if it works.

By the way, do you get movement on the planet-cnc UI screen?

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The program starts and runs normal. I have all the correct movement on the mill and the UI screen. Then one of two things happens. It either stops and resets all axis to zero in the middle of the part or it freezes in the middle of the part. When it freezes, it is not moving on the cnc or the UI screen. Sometimes after a freeze it will come up with an 'IO timeout error', but the only way to clear is to unplug USB and start over.
I will send my settings and g-code files over tonight. Please be sure to load my settings when running the g-code. No movement of the cnc is necessary as the controller will do these issues without power to any drives and just the USB board connected, on my board at least.

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I have a MK1 board that I just got running and I am having issues. Do you have an MK1 board at your shop that I can send you my G-Code to run? The freexing/zeroing in the middle of the program issue happens even with no step drives attached to the board.

Did you set them up as limit switches or home switches?

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Not sure where do I check that?

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Go to config, then ports and pins, then input signals.

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The limits are labeled x++, x— for example.

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I'm using Mach3. I have 2 limit switches on X, 2 on Y and 1on Z for retracted/home. I can go to diagnostics and see the switches/inputs working. But when I move with jog or gcode they have no effect. Also I can go right past the soft limits. I must have something turn off but I don't know what.

Did you install the Mach3 USB plug-in?

Make sure that you followed all of the steps and diagrams on the following page:
https://www.buildyourcnc.com/item/electronicsAndMotors-electronic-component-breakout-Mach3-USB-Board

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ABSOLUTELY NOTHING WORKS. I HAVE ALL STRUCTURE AND MECHICAL PARTS OF THE BLACKTOOTH CUTTER DONE. HOWEVER WHEN WIRE UP STEPPER MOTOR TO DRIVER. THAT MACH 3 USB CONTROLLER BOARD, TRY JOG MOTOR, WORKS! PREVIOSULY HAD PLANET CNC BREAKOUT HOWRVER, ONLY MOVED MOTORS IN ONE DIRECTION COULDNT CHANGE IT. ANY HELP WOULD BE APRECIATED

Did you connect the USB connector to the breakout board?

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YES I CONNECTED THE USB TO THE BREAKOUT BOARD

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I connected the electronics (for 2 x 4 feet) that I ordered from you. But how do I check if I connected all the wiring properly. There is neither any light on motor drivers nor on breakout board. And the motor shaft also does not move before and after the power supply is given.

Here is how to connect your router to the parallel breakout board through the on-board relay. You will need a spare extension cord. You will need to remove a portion of the outer jacket of the extension cord to expose the white, black and green wires (white = neutral, black = live and green = ground), understanding that the neutral and live create the completed circuit.

See this image of a similar connection. The terminal has the same connections.
https://www.buildyourcnc.com/images/vacuum-pressure-controller-relay-terminals-700.JPG

Image of the relay terminal:
https://www.buildyourcnc.com/images/breakoutboardrelayNONC.PNG

The live/black wire would be cut and one end of the cut would be secured into the P terminal and the other cut end would be secured into the S terminal. The live and ground wire would be uncut and travel from the plug to the router.


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You can also connect other high powered devices to the breakout board using any of the output terminals. You will need to supply extra relays like the one shown here:
https://www.buildyourcnc.com/item/electronicsAndMotors-breakout-Relays-relay-board-250V-12A-5V

Or you can find SSRs (Solid State Relays) that will accept 5v to drive the relay coil. Make sure the SSR will protect the 5V line from Back EMF as there is a coil in the relay. The one we sell contains a fly-back diode to protect the 5v terminal.

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I have your breakout board with relay parallel port , I have a vacuum, light on router and air pump I want to also hook up to board, can I hook those up to board and also could I had reylays to each one, what is the best way to figure this out any information would be great. Thanks

Attaching two motors in parallel is possible, but you will need another motor and driver for the opposite side. Each motor must have its own driver to work accordingly and fluently. The two can be wired together, to the same pins on your breakout board and set the dip switches on the driver to match the ones on your x-axis(ex). But remember to view the orientation of the motor and which way it spins, since it is on the opposite side it will have to be orientated correctly to move in sync with the other motor.

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I just finished building my first CNC with the electronics I purchased from you and I am already thinking about improving it. I would like to build a 2 motor X axis solution. Is it possible to attach 2 parallel motors and drivers to the BlueBrew Breakout Board? If so, how?

I can provide a paypal invoice for the difference in price. Just give me an email at customerservice@buildyourcnc.com and then I can send you the invoice.

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I can provide a paypal invoice for the difference in price. Just give me an email at customerservice@buildyourcnc.com and then I can send you the invoice.

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thats great thank you. please send it to james_moya@hotmail.com and i will be paying with my cc.

Additional Information:
thats great thank you. please send it to james_moya@hotmail.com and i will be paying with my cc.

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i placed an order with you on 5.27.20 for 3 stepper motors. i realize now i need the rest of the electronics (drivers, breakout board power supply etc...) i see you offer a bundle and would like to know how i can get the rest of the bundle. im looking at the $390 bundle without the motors obviously. please advise. thank you

For safety's sake I would recommend a new board because they are inexpensive compared to the electronics that they support. Alternatively, it's possible that the one dead pin is a simple fix, such as a bad connection or solder joint; if you feel comfortable making those repairs then it could be worthwhile to check. Finally, if you are not using all the input pins, you could continue to operate the limit switch on pin 11 and hope for the best.

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I have a breakout board and it appears that the pin 12 connection has failed: when i move my limit switches to pin 11 they work; they don't work on pin 12. Do i need a new breakout board?

Hi, you can call me at the 281-815-7701 number. Please leave a message when you call as most of the calls are screened to avoid scam calls. You can also email me at customerservice@buildyourcnc.com or phooddaniel@berkeley.edu.

The newer kits that are featured on the home page include everything you need except a computer and software. The legacy CNC routers that are located in the CNC machines menu selection include all of the parts for the gantry, but you will need to build the table yourself. All of the information on the measurements to be followed for the table construction are on the machine pages.

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I am looking at getting a 4x8 cnc router kit. I am having a hard time figuring out what is included in the kit and what else i will need to buy with it to get off the ground and running. Is there someone i could talk to to walk me through it? If not, can you break down what all I need to go from scratch to a running set up? thanks

Sure, the USB interface has a place for 4 axes of limit switches.

Each axis can have two limit switches: one for the ++ (positive) end and one for the -- (negative) end. The positive end would be the limit switch at the end of the machine that, say the machine has a 4'x8' area, reaches a bit after the 8 foot mark. The negative end would be the limit switch behind the 0 foot location behind the origin. If the origin is in the middle, the negative would be at a little more than the -4 foot end and the positive would be at a bit more than the +4 foot end. Note that you can have more than one switch on each pin where the NC is connected in serial fashion and the NO is connected in parallel fashion (this can be seen on the diagram in the multiple limits switch section). The software configurations for the limits switches are under File -> Settings -> Limit.

A typical limit switch has three connections on it. These connections consist of COM (common), NC (normally closed) and NO (normally open). The COM would generally go to GND and the NC or the NO would go to the pin. If the NC is used, then the the switch is constantly connected until the switch is pushed (engaged) then the connection from the pin to gnd is broken (open). Use the settings in software to set whether in NC or NO configuration.

Let me know if this information was helpful (or not) by adding information to this question. Thanks.

User response:
Thank you very much for this helpful information. I'm still a little fuzzy on how the 6 limit switches physically connect to each other and to the USB breakout board. You've stated one switch (home) goes to positive and another switch (limit) goes to negative. Are all the GND prongs from all 6 switches connected to each other and going to GND on the breakout board, or no? And the NC prongs, how exactly are they connected to each other? And to the board? There has to be a diagram somewhere shows this visually, no? I don't know how to wire the switches in series or in parallel. I have already physically installed all the switches on the machine and ran the wires to where the board is. Now I just need to know where to plug these wires into the board. Also, taking into consideration that I'm using the Planet CNC software, the only settings I have pertaining to limit switches is "Enable/Disable" for each axis, and the actual limit for each axis. Nothing about NC or NO. Is that only in Mach3?
Thank you.

buildyourcnc response:
On the USB interface, the COM on the switch connects to GND and the NC or NO connects to the input pin (i.e. x++, y--, etc.)

Limit switch configuration is rather difficult to understand, especially with series and parallel. You can think of series as a single wire going from GND to the axis letter input terminal (i.e. X++ or X--). If the wire is broken, then the circuit is open (or the switch is engaged in a normally closed scenario). Normally closed is like an actual wire, and when engaged, the switch "opens" (breaks the wire). This is why we recommend in some systems that you can put many switches in series on a single pin. When one of the switches is engaged (breaking the connection) then the entire circuit of switches is broken and the machine stops.

In a parallel scenario, the state of the circuit is always broken until the one of the switches is engaged and the circuit is then closed or connected. The topology looks like a ladder. All the switches connect to both sides of the ladder and the switches are like the runs of the ladder (the horizontal bars that the feet are placed while climbing). Imagine all of the switches broken in this scenario (normally open). It would be like the ladder could be split in two, but if one of the ladder runs (switches) is closed by engaging it, then that run would connect both sides of the ladder and the two sides of the ladder would have a connection.

There is a diagram on the USB page of the various limit switch configurations. If you need more information (visual and/or otherwise), please let us know and we will immediately add that information to benefit everyone.

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I have nearly completed the CNC machine from the book, but I am using it with a USB breakout board, and have no idea how to wire the 6 limit switches to the board. I'm having difficulty following the diagram on the USB breakout board screen. Can someone please help me?

No, we have gotten away from the planet-cnc boards as they have decided to not support our board with their software. You can use the Mach3 USB board as an alternative. You will be better off with Mach3 as a control software as this is widely used and supported.

Mach3 USB board:
https://www.buildyourcnc.com/item/electronicsAndMotors-electronic-component-breakout-Mach3-USB-Board

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I have the older discontinued USB breakout board. The y-axis no longer works and have traced it to the breakout board. Is there a replacement board that can use the same Planet CNC software running on Windows 10?