Your question caused me to make a quick video to understand how the pokeys57CNC controller works with a THC.

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[596] Would you help with the Hook up and the Configuration and whether it is in the Plugin or mach 4 control configuration that needs to be set. I decided to use the ultra fast encoders connector pin #8, 12 and 13 for Arc ok, UP and Down. Please advise what setting to set to make it all work. Thank you very much for your help!

If you are wanting to use servos, I would highly recommend using closed loop steppers and drivers. You will get the best features of both the servo closed loop and the exact digital positioning of stepper motors.

For controllers: the pokeys57cnc will work with either Mach3 or Mach4
https://www.buildyourcnc.com/item/electronicsAndMotors-electronic-component-breakout-Mach4-mach3-USB-ethernet-Board

Otherwise, you can use the Mach3 USB controller if you only an on using Mach3:
https://www.buildyourcnc.com/item/electronicsAndMotors-electronic-component-breakout-Mach3-USB-Board

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Hi there. I have an ex school Boxford HSRmi2 sat in my workshop, good condition and I'm assured it's all ok, but I want to rip everything out and go down the Mach 3/4 rabbit hole with servos. I need help at this point as I haven't done anything like this before and have no knowledge of controllers/motors etc. Could someone please point me in the right direction? Thanks.

Did you connect the USB connector to the breakout board?

Additional Information:
YES I CONNECTED THE USB TO THE BREAKOUT BOARD

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good afternoon, a few years ago I bought them a combo engine, driver, bod. and power supply. But a few days ago there was an accident and was burned bod, bod buy them another driver 3.0amp the work well, but the 6.0 is not working, the green light is on, and the engine has has power. the power supply is 36v and 34v brand. if you could help me I would appreciate it very much thank you.

If you are using Mach3 do you have your hotkeys set up correctly?

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The office was closed on the weekends and during Dr. Martin Luther King Jr. Holiday.

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I got my Blackfoot 4.3 built. Hooked it to the Redleaf and when testing the axis controls Im able to move the X axis using the Right arrow key, but unable to move it with the left key. I have no control on my Y axis. Tried calling for tech support and recieve voicemail 2 days in a row after a few calls each day.

You should have no problem connecting the Pokeys57CNC controller to the drivers of your machine as long as the drivers have step (Pulse or PUL) and direction (DIR) terminals. You will need the cable pack that is sold separately so you can connect the headers/connectors of the pokeys57cnc controller to the drivers using ribbon cables.

I show this process in great detail on this page:
https://buildyourcnc.com/item/electronicsAndMotors-electronic-component-breakout-Mach4-mach3-USB-ethernet-Board

Is you scroll down on the page, you will see a set of videos that show the process step-by-step.

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I have a ShopBot CNC that was converted to Mach 3. The controller has gone out. I pourchased your Pokeys57 board, but I'm not sure I have everything I need. I think my motor drivers are OK, but am not sure how to wire them to what I purchased from you. Need Help. How can we make this work, or do I need a different board to distribute the movement signals to my drivers?

If you have an existing PC with a parallel port you will not need to purchase the onboard computer system on the blackTooth laser cutter and engraver. You will want to purchase the blackTooth laser engraver that comes with the parallel interface (breakout board). If you have an existing CNC machine that is being used with this PC, you can disconnect the CNC machine and connect the blackTooth to this PC. You will want to have two configurations for your control software.

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We have a version of the blackTooth that is 110v and 220v. We generally determine which is sent according to the requirements of the customer and in what country they live.

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20

Additional Information:
Parallel Port Configuration BIOS settings and Mach 3.

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I'm interested in purchasing your black tooth laser engraver and am curious what setup to get. I already have a cnc wired via parallel port to my PC. Do I need to purchase the black tooth laser with the integrated computer or can I just disconnect my current cnc's parallel port and connect it to the black tooth laser engraver? Also is the black tooth 110v?

The 5x10 greenBull base kit comes with the structure, hardware, and electronics for motion control. In order to have a fully functional CNC you will need a table base for your machine, a spindle or router to handle your cutting applications, end mills (bits) for cutting, CAD, CAM and CNC software, and a computer. There are also accessories you can add such as limit switches, emergency stops, and cable carrier for cable management. If you are looking for more information or a formal quote please contact sales@buildyoucnc.com

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I'm not sure of ALL the things I will need to do some of my ideas for the cnc machine. I'll mostly be cutting out 3/4" plywood projects. How much minimum for a 5' by 10' system? I need the hardware and software to get the job done. I saw the price for your basic unit 3-4 grand but don't know what all I NEED to start work.

Can you send me a link to the digitizer you are using?

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Hi my names is Minh Truong I would like to said thank you very much for your video I got the system mach3 working fine but one thing I can NOT set and config the digitizer on the board IN4 I am not sure how to setup because in the Mach3 pin 14 for digitizer Please shoe me hoe to set it up for the digitizer.

Modifying the Z-axis to accommodate a larger motor will be a worth while task and is possible, however we have not calibrated the z-axis therefore using the 1600 Steps-per inch in the motor tuning on our machine in our shop. We have not noticed any significant depth increments from not calibrating the z-axis but only from zeroing the z axis too close to the material. Also in your design did you specify the actual depth and the length of tool (end mill/ bit) that you are using?

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I bought a Blacktoe 2 x 8 three years ago and have always had a problem with the Zid axis. No matter how tightly I've calibrated the axis it always cuts to deep. Can I put a larger Stepper motor on Z-axis using the same motion electronics that came with the original machine.

The Mach3 USB will not work with Linux CNC. You can use our parallel breakout baord instead (if you have a computer that has a parallel port available).

Here is the link to that interface:
https://www.buildyourcnc.com/item/electronicsAndMotors-parallel-breakout-relay

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Hello. I'm currently building my first CNC router, and I'm powering it with a 3 axis electronics kit that was purchased through your site. I chose to get the Mach 3 USB Breakout board, but now I'm wanting to try to use Linux CNC to work with the computer I have available. Will that work with this board?

The Mach3 USB interface board requires 24V relays externally. There are no relays on the mach3 usb board. If you use an external relay on the mach3 usb board, the relay connects to the V+ which is 24V and the output pin is the return.

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I understand what you are saying. Does your relay board work with the Mach3 USB board? If not, what relay board do you suggest to work with this usb controller?

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Our relay board works with our parallel breakout board. An off the shelf SSR (Solid State Relay) made for 24V should work fine.

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I bought a 'BuildyourCNC V1' relay board to go with my mach3 usb controller. I have been sent a 'Songle' relay. It's not the one in your picture and it's got different connections, for which there isn't a wiring diagram. The one I ordered says it is 5v, this one seems to be saying it's a 24v unit. Can you please explain what has happened? Thanks

The Mach3 USB interface board requires 24V relays externally. There are no relays on the mach3 usb board. If you use an external relay on the mach3 usb board, the relay connects to the V+ which is 24V and the output pin is the return.

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I understand what you are saying. Does your relay board work with the Mach3 USB board? If not, what relay board do you suggest to work with this usb controller?

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Our relay board works with our parallel breakout board. An off the shelf SSR (Solid State Relay) made for 24V should work fine.

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I bought a 'BuildyourCNC V1' relay board to go with my mach3 usb controller. I have been sent a 'Songle' relay. It's not the one in your picture and it's got different connections, for which there isn't a wiring diagram. The one I ordered says it is 5v, this one seems to be saying it's a 24v unit. Can you please explain what has happened? Thanks

The drivers have quite a bit of protection, so you probably won't ruin anything. You motors are jumping and that is just the motors engaging from getting power from the power supply.

There could be many reasons your motors don't turn. Consider these troubleshooting tips:

- If you are using our parallel breakout board, make sure that the step pins are set for active low (config -> Ports and Pins -> Motor Outputs -> the steps pins should be enabled and set active low)

- The parallel breakout board is powered (connect the USB to the computer using a USB cable)

- In Mach3, make sure you have jog enabled (a little green button at thelower middle of the page in the program run screen).

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DS26

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If I wired my stepper motors incorrectly what parts of the electronics will be ruined? When I turn on the power, my motors jump like they are supposed to but for some reason, the G-code doesn't seem to be moving from Mach 3 to the motors. Any help would be appreciated. Do I need to order new electronics or just part of the system? Thanks

Was this VFD purchased from buildyourcnc.com and if so, what is the model number. If not, please provide the model number and we will attempt to determine the issue.

Also, is this question related to a previous question you asked earlier? If so, please respond to that question with this new information.

Many thanks.

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Yes it was purchased through your website, here is the number is YL600-2S-2K20

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Ok great. I will look into it.

Is this related to the R S T and L1 L2 question that was recently asked?

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No

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It started with that but then once it was wired up it changed to this.

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Ok. Thanks. Please explain how you have the VFD wired to the 220v outlet.

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I have traced the black wire clear from the panel to the R terminal and the white wire to the T terminal and the ground to the E terminal. I have even used a multimeter on the terminals in the VFD while the wires are connected and the power is on, and I get 240V across the R and T terminals and 120 from R to Ground and from T to Ground.

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I still have not seen a response to my previous additional information. It has now been 5 days since then and I still have a non-functioning VFD, what should I do?

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My apologies. I didn’t see your latest wiring clarification response. Please connect the white (neutral) wire to the “S” terminal.

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So, i wired it up and now it does in fact power up. However, now it just gives me an ERR 02 code. What does that mean? the only manual that came with the VFD is all in Chinese. Do you have a book in english? Or a list of error codes?

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I have not seen a response to my previous comment. It has been a while since i have heard from you. What do i do next?

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Sorry about that. The Er 02 code in my manual says that there is an over-current at constant speed, over-current at deceleration or over-crrent at stop.
The recommended actions in the manual says:
1. Check whether the motor has got short circuit and whether the insulation of the output wires is good.
2. Check whether the motor is blocked and whether there is a sudden change of mechanical load.
3. Check whether there is a sudden change in he power supply voltage.
4. Check whether the insulation of the output wires is good and whether the motor has got a short circuit.
5. Extend the ramp down time.
6. Replace it with an inverter (VFD) of larger capacity
7. DE braking is too high. Decrease DC braking (this is only if you have a braking resistor connected).
8. The inverter has failure. Please send it to the factory to repair.

What I have done in the office is to check the resistance between the motor coils. The motor coils should have the same amount of wire winding on each coil. If there is a short circuit in this coil, the the resistance should be lower since there is less wire to travel. You can use a multimeter to check between pin 1 and 2, 1 and 3 and 2 and 3. The resistance should be generally the same.

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I worked threw all the other problems. the controller is now displaying Err 10. WHat does that mean.

Can you provide a complete list of error codes. Or documentation to support this device you sold to me.

id like to be able to integrate this thing into my growing business. i have been pretty unhappy so far with the lack of support. If you have any documentation, can you please send it to me. i cant be the only one having issues. Or even asking for help with these VFDs.

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So I had my electrician hook it up as per your recommendations and nothing happens. Nothing lights up on the screen and nothing turns on. I have verified that the vfd that I was supplied is for single phase power and I have single phase power at my shop. It is a 220v vfd and I am supplying it with 220v. What do I do now? Is this vfd a bad one and do I need a new one?

The motor with that model number is here: https://buildyourcnc.com/item/electronicsAndMotors-nema24-425ozin

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In looking for a stepper motor amongst old parts in my lab, I found one with a sticker that says buildyourowncnc.com and PN SM60HT86-2008BF U2 on it. I found a Q&A on your website that says it's a NEMA 24 motor with 425 oz/in holding torque. I was wondering if you were able to confirm this? Any specs sheets and details of the motor would be much appreciated

As long as you have enough air blowing at the cutting location, you shouldn't have a problem with charring. A 40 watt laser should be able to cut through 4 ply chipboard.

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is the 40W blacktooth laser cutter strong enough to cut through 4 ply chipboard with out horrifically burning/charring the edges? If you havent tried mabye you could as this is a must for anyone who will be using it to build architectural models. I would rather have this pre-verified before I give $2100 to have you build one

We may be able to source those motors. Curious, the 6000 oz-in motor is pretty big. Do you mind explaining the application of the CNC machine and the structure that would require the large motor?

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The largest motors we can offer is 3900 oz-in without any mechanical help. 6000 oz-in can be resolved by mechanical means as an alternative.

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I am converting a 12x36 lathe over to CNC, I am interested in a 2 axis kit. I would love one stepper motor to be no smaller than 1200oz. , and another at 6000z. Is this something that you could offer? I have two other cnc machines but this is my first converstion on my own.

Depending on the type of motors and connection type, you could adapt your motors to work with our electronic packages, but you will receive additional motors since our kit is complete.

Now you will have to take into affect the actual motors you have and compare or get accurate replacements(Ex. our 425 oz motor(1/4" input shaft) will have to be same size or similar entry holes)

Your Controller board will be the major issue, due to its wiring and processing manner, you can view the connections for our breakout boards to compare with yours! (parallel: https://www.buildyourcnc.com/item/electronicsAndMotors-parallel-breakout-relay#prettyPhoto/2/)(USB: https://www.buildyourcnc.com/item/electronicsAndMotors-electronic-component-USB-Controller-Breakout#prettyPhoto/2/)
Email(customerservice@buildyourcnc.com for further help)

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I am looking at one of your electronics packages as a replacement for my excisting electronics. I have a old table top CNC that has a bad electronics pack, but the motors, and the mill are in good shape. could your system be adapted to work in this case?

Can you check if there are cracks in the inner glass tube? Also, check to see if there is water between the inner glass tube and the outer glass tube. That will give you an indication of cracking in the inner glass tube.

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I was in the process of aligning mirrors for our vertical XL and suddenly the laser does not fire anymore, there is an arcing sound and a light near the Anode (positive) connector of the tube on the very inside. Do you think the laser tube would go bad so quickly? how could we avoid this?