Did you connect the USB connector to the breakout board?

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YES I CONNECTED THE USB TO THE BREAKOUT BOARD

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I connected the electronics (for 2 x 4 feet) that I ordered from you. But how do I check if I connected all the wiring properly. There is neither any light on motor drivers nor on breakout board. And the motor shaft also does not move before and after the power supply is given.

Youmay be able to find an adapter for your cable, or even a new cable, locally. This is the cable we sell that will work, https://www.buildyourcnc.com/item/electronicsAndMotors-cable-wire-db25-male-male

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The female 25 pin socket on my computer has to be connected to a similar socket on the breakout (parallel) board which came with my Blacktooth. Do I need a DB25 to DB25 cable, if such a thing exists? The cable I have is male to female.

Yes, you can use a laptop if you have a controller that uses a USB, like the Mach3 USB card. If you don't have that, you can purchase that part here:
https://www.buildyourcnc.com/item/electronicsAndMotors-electronic-component-breakout-Mach3-USB-Board

If you have a controller board that connects to a 25 pin connector, modern laptops will not be able to connect to that port.

How old is your CNC computer system?

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The CNC computer system is 2013 (5 years). The built in video card went out. I will order the Mach3 USB card. Thank you.

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You're welcome

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The motherboard on the computer I bought from you went out. What would you suggest. I have a laptop, could I use it and use a Mach3 USB interface board?

The best place to find information and step by step instructions for Mach4 is to use the manuals provided by MachSupport.com.

Here is a link to the PDF manuals for Mach4: http://www.machsupport.com/help-learning/product-manuals/

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I purchased Mach 4 control software and am in need of a very elementary tutorial on set up. I am extremely new to this and need step by step help. Thanks

The maximum length we can ship is a total of 78" inches. However we can send your required length in portions. Please refer to adding the total items you require to your cart to get a visualized amount and shipping cost.

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Regarding 1/2" 5 start and 10 TPI ACME precision lead screw, what the maximum length you can ship within USA? I'm looking for something like 100" and I could use a 1" screw if available. Please include estimated price. Thanks.

I have very detailed wiring videos for the Pokeys57CNC controller on the pokeys57CNC controller webpage: https://buildyourcnc.com/item/electronicsAndMotors-electronic-component-breakout-Mach4-mach3-USB-ethernet-Board

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[50] I purchased 3 Axis Heavy Gantry Electronics /w Pokeys57CNC controller (Mach3 and 4 Compatible) and Cable Pack I plan to use Mach 3 do You have a wiring diagram Thanks

I have not hear of this. This cold be an issue with using later firmware, but I have not come across having to cut the trace for the reset enable on the Arduino board.

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Have you heard of the requirement to cut the Reset Enable trace on the Aruduino Mega for a Makerbot Thing-o-matic? Does this apply to the whiteAnt 3d printer? The trace on my Arduino board is definitely connected and I am experiencing issues with connectivity. Please advise.

https://buildyourcnc.com/Item/electronicsAndMotors-electronic-component-e-stop-button-switch-safety#prettyPhoto/0/

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How do I wire up multiple E-stop to breakout board, does each E-stop need there own pin? If not since there are only 4 screws on stop 2 for no and 2 for nc do you just splice the wires together if your only using 1 pin? Thanks

You will want to connect the homing switches (which may also serve as your near limit switches) to different input terminals. It's ok to add more limit switches with the home switches, but each home should be on independent inputs. For example, connect home X and any other limit switch to IN1, connect home Y and any other limit switch to IN2, and so on. This will allow you to properly use the "ref all home" button in Mach3.

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In the instructions (diagram 1) you show all the home switches connected in parallel? But here you say they need to each have their own inputs. "You will want to connect the homing switches (which may also serve as your near limit switches) to different input terminals." I dont see how the second and third axis can go home if the first axis has already closed the parallel circuit unless they back off a bit until the switch opens up again before the next axis goes to home? My machine has no limit switches so I assume they are home switches.

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[575] I have finally got my limit switches wired and working - thank you. Can they also used as homing switches and if so it it just a question of looping the two inputs on the board i.e. the limit and home terminals IN2 to IN3

We don't hold those boards in-house anymore. You can use the schematic to form your own boards if you wish.

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Thanks for the reply. Has this proven to be a good design?

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Regarding L6203/L297 Stepper Board Driver, would you be willing to sell two unpopulated boards? A friend and I are each building a low cost CNC and I already have most of the components. Thanks.

Thanks for your interest in the 80 Watt Laser Tube Power Supply. We will start offering the 220 Volt version of these power supplies on September 23rd.

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I was looking for a MYJG80W power supply but I see you may not have the 220 volt version. Do you have these as yet and if not what can you advise on availability or where I may find one...Thanks

Yes, you can use a conductive metal to serve as a zeroing block for the Z axis. All you need to do is connect the block (conductive metal) to one of the 4 inputs on the controller. The end mill must be connected to the DCM terminal (the GND of the 24V power supply) of the controller. In the inputs dialog box (config-ports and pins-inputs). Under the probe line, enter port 3 and the pin used for the block.

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[575] Hi can I use a zeroing block with mock three interface board and do you have one I can purchase and directions on how to set up

For setting up home proximity sensors on the PoKeys57 board, it's typically recommended to use the designated limit/home terminal or pin. This is because these ports are specifically designed for connecting limit switches or proximity sensors used for homing.

If you've already connected your sensors to the limit/home terminal and they're not functioning properly, here are a few troubleshooting steps you might want to consider:

Check Wiring and Connections: Ensure that the wiring to the sensors is correct and secure. Sometimes a loose connection can cause issues.

Sensor Configuration: Verify that the sensors are properly configured in the software you're using to interface with the PoKeys57 board. This could involve setting the correct sensor type (NPN or PNP), and ensuring the software is looking for the homing signal on the correct pins.

Test Sensors Individually: Disconnect other inputs and test each sensor individually to isolate the issue. This can help determine if the problem is with a specific sensor or the board itself.

Firmware and Software Updates: Ensure that your PoKeys57 board firmware is up to date, and that you're using the latest version of the control software.

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On the pokeys57 board should I use the limit/home plug or just the block next to that plug form setting up home proximity sensors? I have them on the plug now and can not get them to work.

What are the voltage requirements for your proximity switches?

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On the pokeys57 board should I use the limit/home plug or just the block next to that plug form setting up home proximity sensors? I have them on the plug now and can not get them to work.

For our parallel breakout board (https://www.buildyourcnc.com/item/electronicsAndMotors-parallel-breakout-relay#prettyPhoto/2/) the schematic will show the connections going from the BB to the drivers. The parallel breakout board uses the 25 pin parallel connection to communicate from the computer to drivers, and the USB is used to power the main-board itself, supplying 5V.

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The electronics package I just bought from you (Book Build) is different from your wireing diagrams and video tutorials. Is there an updated wiring diagram available? Is the USB port on the breakout board connected directly to the computer USB to supply 5 volts? Thank you.

If you want speed control, it is recommended to use the RS-485 connection on the VFD and use the control program such as Mach3 to communication serially with the VFD using this RS-485 connection.

If you would rather use a controller such as the PMDX-107 to simulate the effect of a potentiometer using the Aref, Aout and Agnd and the Rev/Dir and Fwd/Run terminals to control operation and direction, you can connect those to the VFD.

PMDX-107 Aout connects to the VI (analog voltage in). This is like the wiper on a potentiometer.
PMDX-107 Agnd connects to the ACM terminal on the VFD for Analog common.
PMDX-107 COM connects to DCM terminal on the VFD for Digital common.
PMDX-107 Fwd/Run connects to the FOR terminal on the VFD for Forward.
PMDX-107 Rev/Dir connects to the REV terminal on the VFD for Reverse.

Refer to your PMDX-107 manual to correctly configure your dip switch settings and make sure to calibrate (tweak) the speed control using the trimmer next to the terminals on the PMDX-107.

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I have the USB controller board and the 8825 step driver. I need a wiring diagram between the two. Specifically, what does the GND pin on the X-axis connect to? Also, what does the 5V pin on the driver connect to?

You can find a wiring diagram here:
https://buildyourcnc.com/item/electronicsAndMotors-electronic-component-USB-Controller-Breakout#prettyPhoto/2/

The CP terminal is wired to the step terminal on the 8825 step driver.
The CW terminal is wired to the direction terminal on the 8825 step driver.
The GND terminal connects to the GND on the 8825 step driver

The 5V connector on the driver simply powers the logic side of the chip and needs to connect to VCC pin on the keyboard jog.

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Thanks! Working now.

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I have the USB controller board and the 8825 step driver. I need a wiring diagram between the two. Specifically, what does the GND pin on the X-axis connect to? Also, what does the 5V pin on the driver connect to?

If you were logged in when you made the purchase, you can click the "My Account" link at the top of any page on this website and see all of your orders, order line items (with direct links to these items), and shipment information.

Here is a link to the "My Account" page for your convenience:
https://www.buildyourcnc.com/CustomerInfo.aspx

I did not see your username on your internal customer record, so I added this username and you should be able to see the information in the "My Account" page.

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I just tested your accounts page and the cable carrier links are in there. Thanks and please let me know if you need further assistance.

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I have purchased cable carrier chain and would like to know if you could send me a copy of that order as I need to purchase extra lengths of the links I bought. Thanks

My apologies for not getting back to you. We always answer the phones during business hours, so I would try that first. Our emails on Monday generally is stacked up as we are closed during the weekend. We can try your g-code here. Please send the g-code to the techsupport@buildyourcnc.com email address and we will test the code to see if it works.

By the way, do you get movement on the planet-cnc UI screen?

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The program starts and runs normal. I have all the correct movement on the mill and the UI screen. Then one of two things happens. It either stops and resets all axis to zero in the middle of the part or it freezes in the middle of the part. When it freezes, it is not moving on the cnc or the UI screen. Sometimes after a freeze it will come up with an 'IO timeout error', but the only way to clear is to unplug USB and start over.
I will send my settings and g-code files over tonight. Please be sure to load my settings when running the g-code. No movement of the cnc is necessary as the controller will do these issues without power to any drives and just the USB board connected, on my board at least.

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I have a MK1 board that I just got running and I am having issues. Do you have an MK1 board at your shop that I can send you my G-Code to run? The freexing/zeroing in the middle of the program issue happens even with no step drives attached to the board.