I would recommend wiring the E-Stop to an input terminal via an NC connection. This is the industry standard. It requires a NC (Normally connected) circuit for the machine to be operational, and when the circuit breaks, the machine shuts off. This is better than having a circuit NO (normally open), open circuit that requires a circuit to be created to have the machine shut off for safety.

Having en E-Stop run through the mains line would only work for a single circuit (or use multiple E-stops, which defeats the purpose). The E-stop connected to the input terminal would shut off all machine functions.

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100% agree. When we have our automatic fire suppression systems wired in, we always do them NC (Normally Connected/Normally Closed). You can see more at www.reactonfire.com/what-we-protect/cnc-fire-suppression/ If you're doing a fire system (ours or others) be sure to shut down the machine and mist collectors)

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100% agree. When we have our automatic fire suppression systems wired in, we always do them NC (Normally Connected/Normally Closed). You can see more at www.reactonfire.com/what-we-protect/cnc-fire-suppression/ If you're doing a fire system (ours or others) be sure to shut down the machine and mist collectors)

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How should I wire the E-stop button? NC or NO?

I would recommend wiring the E-Stop to an input terminal via an NC connection. This is the industry standard. It requires a NC (Normally connected) circuit for the machine to be operational, and when the circuit breaks, the machine shuts off. This is better than having a circuit NO (normally open), open circuit that requires a circuit to be created to have the machine shut off for safety.

Having en E-Stop run through the mains line would only work for a single circuit (or use multiple E-stops, which defeats the purpose). The E-stop connected to the input terminal would shut off all machine functions.

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How should I connect the E-stop to the machine?

Make sure that the port setting for that output is set to port 3. To do this in Mach3, click config -> Ports & Pins -> click the outputs tab and in the list of outputs, select the output you want to use and set the port to 3.

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I have a single axis motion for my table saw fence. Motor, limit switches and e-stop work fine. I now need to add an air solenoid relay but I cannot get the outputs to work. I have 24v supply connected and tried using the Spindle output on pin 1. But using a multimeter, there is no voltage on the Output 1 terminal.

In our 3-Axis electronics kit, the power supply's provided are capable of both 110V-220V. You have the capability to switch between both in case you might decide to run 220v in the near future or will relocate where 110v is being used.

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Connect spindle to the board



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In the 3 Axis Electronics Combo, what is the AC input of the power supply (110v or 220v??). is it possible to specify a certain voltage when ordering?

The type of wire that should be used between the spindle and the VFD (Variable Frequency Driver also called the inverter) should be of stranded type and we use between 18 and 16 AWG.

The total current is divided among the three coil wires, therefor a wire gauge of 16 should be sufficient.

Currently we use 20AWG 4 conductor.

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What kind of wire should I use between the invertor and the spindle?

If you are using shielded wire between the motor and driver, the shielded portion (the reflective jacket within the insulated portion of the wire) and any spare wires, or stranded wire should all be grounded and be inserted into the GND terminal on the driver.

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When using shielded wire from driver to stepper motor, where should I connect the shielding? Should it be ground on transformer or something/somewhere else?

You can find the wiring diagram for the 2.2kW spindle and, follow through instructions here.
https://www.buildyourcnc.com/item/spindle-inverter-2!2kw-spindle-novfd#prettyPhoto/8/

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wiring diagram at spindle top


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Can you please provide settings for a 110v 2.2 spindle vfd

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Can you please provide settings for a 110v 2.2 spindle vfd

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How should I wire the 2.2kw spindle and vfd?

The best choice would be a type K thermocouple.

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What thermocouple or thermister should I use for the extruder hot end?

It is ok to connect the limit/homing switches to the same input.  The machine will go through a procedure that will start with the first axis, hit the switch, pull off, move more slowly for better accuracy, then pull off again.  This procedure makes sure that the input is always in the correct state while homing.

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Is it possible to have proximity switches I use for homing connected to one input too?

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Is it possible to have proximity switches I use for homing connected to one input too?

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When connecting homing switches, should I use more than one input?

I would recommend using 14/3 power cable for the connection from the wall outlet to the VFD. The 14 is the gauge and the 3 is the number of conductors (wires) in the cable.

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What type of cable and gauge should I use from the vfd to the wall outlet?

If you are using the AWC708 or equivalent laser controller, the limit switches will connect between the EL input terminal and the GND terminal in normally open (NO) connection. Most limit switches can be connected as NO, or normally closed (NC).

For instance, a limit switch for the X- limit will be connected from the ELX- terminal to the NO connection of the limit switch, then a connection from the GND terminal on the laser controller to the COM connection to the same limit switch.

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How should I connect the limit switches to my laser controller?

The greenBull can range is routing width sizes of 5 feet and 6 feet. The blackFoot has a 4 foot routing width.

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The greenBull machine has a sturdier gantry than the blackFoot, so you can be more agressive with the cutting feedrate (cutting speed). The blackFoot is also a good machine, but it all comes down to the speed at which you want to produce the fabrication

The spindle is also highly recommended for it's quietness and easier cleanup (no fan blowing the dust in the air)

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WHICH MACHINE SHOULD I BUY, THE GREENBULL OR BLACKFOOT?

The greenBull can range is routing width sizes of 5 feet and 6 feet. The blackFoot has a 4 foot routing width.

Previous Solution:
The greenBull machine has a sturdier gantry than the blackFoot, so you can be more agressive with the cutting feedrate (cutting speed). The blackFoot is also a good machine, but it all comes down to the speed at which you want to produce the fabrication

The spindle is also highly recommended for it's quietness and easier cleanup (no fan blowing the dust in the air)

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SHOULD I SELECT THE GREENBULL OR BLACKFOOT CNC MACHINE?

It seems to be getting some kind of interference or a short within the wiring or communication, try jogging the motors in the software without anything wired to the board. Then add one motor at a time to see if there is a short within your wiring or a faulty driver/motor.
If the USB breakout board continues to move the x-axis with no motors or driver wired to it, please email customerservice@buildyourcnc.com for a replacement or further troubleshooting.

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For tuning the motors in mach 3 should I be running a gcode or is keyboard jogging enough to determine the stall rates

Keyboard jogging will give you a good start at motor tuning since going from a stop to rapid travel speed is the quickest the machine will be required to accelerate. However, best practice is to also run test files and actually cut the type of materials you expect to deal with to test machine performance under load and make any fine adjustments needed for maximum performance.

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For tuning the motors in mach 3 should I be running a gcode or is keyboard jogging enough to determine the stall rates

The mapping of the input pins of the parallel breakout board is configured through software. The input pin are very versatile and can be mapped to all kinds of different types of input including axis limits and axis homing.

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Is there a mapping on the input (switch) pins to an axis on the parallel breakout board?

Please provide more information about how you have the limits and home switches connected to the controller. Depending on the configuration of your machine, you may not need anything on input number 3.

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Hi, What wire goes to input 3 for home limit and do I have to change anything in Mach3??

The laser components needed for a typical CO2 laser cutter and engraver are as follows:

- The laser tube and laser tube power supply. We currently have 40W and 80W choices. The laser power supply must be pred with the laser tube (40W power supply with 40W laser tube, for instance)
-- 40W CO2 Laser Tube: https://www.buildyourcnc.com/item/Laser-Component-Laser-Tube-CO2-40Watt
-- 40W CO2 Laser Tube Power Supply: https://www.buildyourcnc.com/item/Laser-Component-Power-Supply-CO2-40W
-- 80W CO2 Laser Tube: https://www.buildyourcnc.com/item/Laser-Component-Laser-Tube-CO2-80Watt
-- 80W CO2 Laser Tube Power Supply: https://www.buildyourcnc.com/item/Laser-Component-Power-Supply-CO2-80W

- The optics for bouncing the laser energy around the machine:
-- Mirror Mount (select the 25mm for easier alignment): https://www.buildyourcnc.com/item/Laser-Component-Mirror-Mount-20mm
-- Mirror (make sure to select the correct size that matches the mirror mount): https://www.buildyourcnc.com/item/Laser-component-20mm-mirror-25mm
-- Nozzle (which also houses another mirror, and houses the final focal lens): https://www.buildyourcnc.com/item/Laser-Component-Nozzle-20mm-lens-mirror: https://www.buildyourcnc.com/item/Laser-Component-Nozzle-20mm-lens-mirror

- The laser controller that controls the laser cutter and engraver. This part provides a contorl panel, computer interface and drives the motion electronics: https://www.buildyourcnc.com/item/Laser-Component-Laser-Control-System

- Safety Eyewear Tinted: https://www.buildyourcnc.com/item/laser-components-goggles-safety-tinted
- Safety Eyewear Honeywell: https://www.buildyourcnc.com/item/laser-components-goggles-safety-honeywell

The motion electronics that move the mirrors and nozzle: This selection will depend on the size of machine you will design (the selection below will provide a good medium range):

- Motors/Drivers (one for each axis in most cases):
-- 425 oz-in torque motor: https://www.buildyourcnc.com/item/electronicsAndMotors-nema24-425ozin
-- 3.0 Amp Driver: https://www.buildyourcnc.com/item/electronicsAndMotors-stepper-driver-3!0a

Typically, 2 motors and 2 drivers are needed for a 2 axis laser system (oves the x and y axes).

Power supply for the motors and drivers (8.8 Amps and 36 V output): https://www.buildyourcnc.com/item/electronicsAndMotors-power-supply-24v-36v

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What Should I buy to complete the basic laser kit

Well, I've never tried particle board. I would stay away from MDF since it is pretty terrible to breathe. You can use standard ply.

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CAN JUST USE PARTICLE BOAD FOR THE SPOIL BOARD OR SHOULD MDX SOMETHING ELSE?