The greenBull 4X comes with all of the components and electronics to assemble the gantry of the machine. You will need to build the table. We provide the rails and roller chain for the X-axis (along the length of the table for full 8 feet of travel). You will need to provide some wire to connect the electronics and a computer to run the machine. You will also need to purchase the software that you will need to run the machine that matches how you will apply the machine. We suggest the mach3 control program. The CAM program is up to you as there are many options out there.

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I am interested in buying the greenBull 5X Long Z CNC Machine Kit, but it is not clear for me what is included in this kit. Is there anything else I need to get the machine work?

If your axis shutters and will not move unless moved by another force, that sounds like your acceleration is set too high. Lower the acceleration until it works well, then lower it a bit more to have a margin of safety.

Users response:
I've lowered my acceleration to 1 in the StepCon program and it still shutters when I jog it, anything else I could check?

Buildyourcnc response:
IF that didn't work, try swapping the X and Y drivers. That way you will pinpoint if the issue is the driver. If the proplem persists, then there may be an issue with the motor itself.

Buildyourcnc response:
The X and Y drivers can be easily swapped by swapping only the motor wires.

- Remove the x-axis motor wires from the X driver.
- Remove the Y motor wires from the Y driver.
- Insert the X motor wires into the Y driver.
- Insert the Y motor wires into the X driver.

Buildyourcnc response:
Now the Y-axis will move the gantry. Test the Gantry movement by moving the Y axis using the up and down arrow keys (mach3).

Users response:
Problem is now solved, I switched the X and Y at the redFly and got the same problem, so then I undid the wires going to each motor and switched them there and it I had a bad solder point in the X axis connector, thank you for the help

Buildyourcnc response:
You're very welcome. We will make sure to thoroughly check the solder points on the cable connectors prior to a redFly delivery.

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X axis won't move on 5x10 GreenBull, it just shutters unless I manually with my hand give it a push then it will jog. What should I check?

Sounds like a wire may have worked itself loose. Did this just start happening? If so, check for loose terminals with the motor wiring. Did you solder the motor wires to the extended wires that lead to the driver? If not, I strongly suggest these wires be soldered and a heat shrink tubing cover the soldered connection to eliminate the possibility of shorting.

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I am just now starting to work with the machine. Was on vacation. It has never moved smoothly on the X. Was hoping to get some phone time with you or Juan tomorrow. All the connections are solid as far as I can tell. Nothing is interfering. I'm wondering if the rail spacing is off. It moves fine when I manually move it.

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If it moves smoothly when manually moving it, but the stepper motor runs rough, then it is definitely a motor wire connection. Also, check to make sure the driver is set to 1/16 microstepping and the motor amps is around 5.

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What gauge wire did you use for the motor to driver connection?

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It was the black wire that was included. Pretty sure it's 18. I was worried it couldn't take it. Some of the 18 I have seen is only rated for 2A. I can rewire with that 4-lead cable you included If you think I should. The connections seem solid so that might make sense.

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It was the black wire that was included. Pretty sure it's 18. I was worried it couldn't take it. Some of the 18 I have seen is only rated for 2A. I can rewire with that 4-lead cable you included If you think I should. The connections seem solid so that might make sense.

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18 gauge is more than sufficient for this stepper motor wiring. We use 20 gauge stranded wires in the 4 conductor motor cable.

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Sometimes wires can get chaffed, or there is a conductivity issue in some wires.I'm wondering if it would be goo to do a test rewiring the motor to the driver, but not putting it into the cable carrier, just to make sure that is the problem.

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What do you suggest I do? Just go over the wiring? The 18 is fine for 5.5A? All the switches look right. Set at 1/16. What are the natural steps on this motor?

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I’ll check the conductivity on the wires. I can just re-run it with that four conductor. That cable works fine for you guys?

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The 4 conductor cable is the only cable we use for these stepper motors. It's a special cable used for motion applications.

Here is a link to that cable that we sell just to confirm the cable we are discussing:
https://www.buildyourcnc.com/item/electronicsAndMotors-cable-wire-20awg-wrcon


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Yeah, that’s it. However, I ran the stock File on the laser cutter, the duck, it seems to run fine it’s just when you make the small adjustments with the arrow keys that it’s so rough. The other problem is that the speed on the stock file is way too fast.

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Ah, the jogging speed. I did not consider this. You definitely need to reduce the speed when you press the arrow keys.

The speed when running a job (the file) can be modified in LaserCad.

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So, I’ll look into that. Everything is done besides for Putting the tube on and adjusting the mirrors. When are you guys available for a quick phone call?

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In LaserCAD, go to the options -> system options -> User parameters. Make sure to click the read button to bring the parameters from the laser controller to the software. Our Key_Move_Speed is 100 and our X/Y_Home_Speed is also 100. I wouldn't go any faster than that. Curious, what are your values for these parameters?

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Key speed was set to 200 and XY was at 50. On the duck file on the machine, it says the speed is at 200. How can I import that file to change it?

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Much smoother after that change. File is still too fast, though.

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In the file, the speed is built into the geometry. You will need to open the file in LaserCAD, select the geometry and modify the speed. Make sure to change the intensity as well to compensate.

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Patrick, I am having issues with the x axis on the vlxl..very rough movement. What should I adjust? Check the rail spacing or can I modify anything in the software?

Yes, we can provide a laser attachment for the long Z version of the greenBull 4x, 5x and 6x. Please call us to get more information and pricing for the laser attachment.

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I have a greenbull 5x with the long Z. Is there a laser kit that I can get for that model?

That is correct. We send the fewer ribs than could be fastened within the gantry. One reduction of a rib will provide more space for the motor at the midpoint of the gantry and at the other side of the gantry (opposite the motor) can be reduced to provide more space to work with the coupling.

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I'm assembling the gantry for a 5x10 greenbull and noticed that there are 9 spaces for torsion spacers but only 7 in the kit. Should I just space them out on the right side behind the motor?

If your axis shutters and will not move unless moved by another force, that sounds like your acceleration is set too high. Lower the acceleration until it works well, then lower it a bit more to have a margin of safety.

IF that didn't work, try swapping the X and Y drivers. That way you will pinpoint if the issue is the driver. If the proplem persists, then there may be an issue with the motor itself.

The X and Y drivers can be easily swapped by swapping only the motor wires.

- Remove the x-axis motor wires from the X driver.
- Remove the Y motor wires from the Y driver.
- Insert the X motor wires into the Y driver.
- Insert the Y motor wires into the X driver.

Now the Y-axis will move the gantry. Test the Gantry movement by moving the Y axis using the up and down arrow keys (mach3).

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X AXIS STEPPER MOTOR STALLS AND SHUTTERS WHEN COMING FROM A STAND STILL WON'T MOVE WITHOUT PUSH BY HAND. I TOOK THE CHAINS OFF SPUN FINE WITH OUT LOAD. HAVE CHAIN HOOKED UP CAN MACHINE BACK FORTH HAND, NO HANG UPS OR ANYTHING, BUT TRY TO IT DOESN'T JUST SPINS OUT. ANY SUGGESTIONS?

Yes, you will need a sensor to determine the speed of the rotation. For instance, you can use a hall effect sensor and put a magnet on the shaft of rotation. By installing the hall effect sensor near the shaft that contains the magnet, you can use this to determine the RPM of the axis and reflect this value in Mach3 using an input in your controller and setting that input in the index line item of the Mach3 input signals dialog box.

Here is a great video that shows the circuit and process:

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You can set the Index input with Mach3 Turn and check that the Index is lit on the screen, but it is not reflected in the rotation speed. Is there any way?

If your axis shutters and will not move unless moved by another force, that sounds like your acceleration is set too high. Lower the acceleration until it works well, then lower it a bit more to have a margin of safety.

Users response:
I've lowered my acceleration to 1 in the StepCon program and it still shutters when I jog it, anything else I could check?

Buildyourcnc response:
IF that didn't work, try swapping the X and Y drivers. That way you will pinpoint if the issue is the driver. If the proplem persists, then there may be an issue with the motor itself.

Buildyourcnc response:
The X and Y drivers can be easily swapped by swapping only the motor wires.

- Remove the x-axis motor wires from the X driver.
- Remove the Y motor wires from the Y driver.
- Insert the X motor wires into the Y driver.
- Insert the Y motor wires into the X driver.

Buildyourcnc response:
Now the Y-axis will move the gantry. Test the Gantry movement by moving the Y axis using the up and down arrow keys (mach3).

Users response:
Problem is now solved, I switched the X and Y at the redFly and got the same problem, so then I undid the wires going to each motor and switched them there and it I had a bad solder point in the X axis connector, thank you for the help

Buildyourcnc response:
You're very welcome. We will make sure to thoroughly check the solder points on the cable connectors prior to a redFly delivery.

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GREENBULL 5X10 X AXIS SHUTTERS

If you are referring to aligning the rails so that the rails are perfectly parallel:

It is important to make sure one rail (a rail at one side of the table) is perfectly aligned first. Do this by fastening one end of the rail to the table (flush with the table edge), then fasten the other end (flush with the table edge). The rail may not be perfectly straight at this point, but that's ok. This process includes the top and bottom rail, fastening and positioning simultaneously.

You are going to fasten the midpoint of the rail. Get a clamp ready so that you can freeze the rail in place. Look down the rail from one end. This is a good way to determine if the rail has a curve, or is straight. If there is a curve, move the rail midpoint laterally until the rail is straight while looking down the rail from one end of the rail. This may take a couple of people to do, one looks down the rail, the other moves it slightly until it is straight and then clamps the rail. Drill and fasten the midpoint when satisfied. Repeat this process, fastening at the midpoint between screws.

Now place the gantry on the table with the v-groove bearings resting on the one rail side. Add the next rail to the other side of the table. Position the rail so that it is directly under the other bearings. Make sure the gantry is at the extreme end and fasten the rail at that end. Move the gantry along the and fasten the rail as you move the gantry so the rail auto-positions itself.

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Thanks for your answer. So the next step is making certain that the gantry is exactly perpendicular to the x axis. Do you just place a square on the rail and adjust one or both chains as needed?

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Is there a specific process for aligning the x axis on the greenbull? There is mention of it at the end either the rail or gantry installation but I could not find it anywhere.

The greenBull CNC machine kit can cut as thick as a material as you desire depending on the reach of the end mill that you provide the machine, if it is a straight vertical. The reason for this is that each pass is incremental (multiple passes at a certain depth per pass). For instance, if you need to cut a 2 inch thick piece of wood, you can make, say 3/4" passes until the target depth of 2 inches is met.

The depth per pass, feedrate and RPM will be determined by the material: wood, plastic, metal and will also be determined by the end mill that is used for that material. Selecting the appropriate end mill is very important. Feedrate and RPM is important to make sure the end mill is as cool as it can be during the cutting process.

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How thick can the Greenbull cut and what kind of material? Wood, plastic, steel? I was also wondering if there is one anywhere in Nevada, Idaho or Utah that I could possibly see in action. Thanks

The feeds and speeds for cutting MDF will depend on the end mill that you are using and at the depth you are cutting.

The feedrates below are based on 18,00 rpm and using a spindle. Routers will not be able to handle these feedrates.

Our Onsrud end mills will cut MDF at 3/4" depth per pass at around 300 ipm using the compression end mill. A standard Onsrud single flute will cut MDF at 3/4" depth at 120-140 ipm.

A general purpose 2 flute end mill at 3/4" depth can cut at around 80 ipm from our experience.

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what are the different (feed, travel,rotation) speed to use with planet cnc and a 5x10 greenbull to cut mdf please?

I looked at a YouTube video and figured out the configuration for the motor mounts.

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Still working on GreenBull 5x10 assembly. Putting together the Z axis my motor mounts don't like the video, so I don't know which one goes where and in what orientation?

You can get them from us. Please send an email to sales@buildyourcnc.com with your order information, or call our customer service line M-F 9-5 at 281-815-7701.

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Working on GreenBull 5x10 assembly and I am missing one 1/2 rigid coupling for installing the X axis motor and chain mounts. I am also missing the two 1/2 drive sprockets as well. Where can I get these items?

Is this CNC related. If so, what controller are you using?

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I'm using the Mach 3/USB CNC interface board, with the Mach 3 software.

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Does the LED on the controller light up, or blink?

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I believe I've corrected the issue. I found that their are 2 spring like tabs on the female USB port. And take a sharp point like on a compass and gentle raise those tabs a bit. This tighten up the connection, and I never received an error from losing connection.

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It appears I have a connection issue with the USB port on my computer with the USB cord. I purchased a new cord but has the same issue. Is there anything I can do to correct this issue?

You most definitely should have received limit switches in your package. We will send you the missing limit switches.

But to directly answer your question; no, limit switches are not needed with CNC machines. You can set up soft limits to make sure the machine does not go out of bounds.

With that said, if the motors stall for some reason and the computer does not know the actual position of the gantry or the spindle, then the machine may actually go out of bounds and the machine may hit a physical limit. With or without limit switches, the machine will stop.

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Please call the office so that we know who you are and we can send the limit switches to the correct person.

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There are no limit switches in my Greenbull 5x10 kit. Are these no longer needed?

a 2' (24 inches) diameter workpiece for a 2'x8' machine may be a bit too much for an overhang. I would recommend the 4'x8' that can house a 4th axis in a cavity within the limits of the machine for a 24-inch part. If you need the rotary axis on the side of the machine, I can design a machine that would work.

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[790] Is there a way to build a 2x8 flat cnc with a 4 th axis on the side so I can do 24” diameter objects. Or have the z axis that tall

I will check with some of our suppliers.

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I am looking for a lead screw with a 4mm lead, at least 4 starts and 36" in length, can you help me out?

The motors do get conditionally hot, because of the constant current going through the motor. The motors should not overheat and stall/fail they are built in the manner to withstand the constant current and heat. Modifying the machine to something that is considered a safe/personal machine is recommended for all our machines.

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Have there been problems with the Greenbull stepper motors overheating? I'm considering adding a fan with filtered inlet and outlet on the gantry plus heat sinks on X, Y and Z.

Do you use the same bit?? If so, check if it is not dull or worn. Maybe it is time for a new bit. Additionally, I would check if the z axis mounts are tightened correctly and the router has no wiggle room. If that doesn't help, check all of the play that may be in the structure and where the bearings run along the rails and tighten all loose connections that may be present.

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So confused....is backlash and chatter the same thing or are they completely unrelated?

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Chatter and backlash are different. Backlash is a condition where there is play in the mechanical parts (i.e. a nut not tight against the treads, or two gears not meshing together tightly). Chatter is a phenomenon caused by many possible conditions including vibration, resonance, springiness and flexibility in the system and certain types of end kill and machine movement scenarios.

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Meant to say end “mill” at the end there.

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when cutting patterns with my cnc router there is significant chatter in the cut-I've replaced the router-what else should I try?